it is looking like my tankless water heater problems are also a symptom of well/pressure tank/pressure switch problem.as i posted on the plumbing forum i have a bosch aquastar 425efl that will not cycle.i put a pressure guage on the cold water supply for the washing machine when the problem first occoured.at that time my well pump was turning on at 32#and pressurizing to 50#,and the heater was working most of the time.yesterday i put the pressure valve on and it was reading 18# and the waterheater is not working at all.i checked it first thing this morning and it was reading 35# but the waterheater still would not work.i checked this afternoon and it was reading 18#.i went outside to a frost free spigot near the well and opened it up and ran it until the well kicked on.the well ran for a couple minutes then clicked off.the pressure tank inside was still reading 18#.i am wondering if i have a bad switch,weak pump,bad bladder,frozen line,or what.did i mention that the pressure tank is buried underground,under 2 or 3 feet of snow,the pressure switch is hanging under the well cap and its about 14 degrees outside.and my wife and 2 young kids are ready for showers.yikes.
diagnosing my problems
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Bob NH
In the Trades
Has the system worked through winters at the current temperatures with the pressure switch and tank located where they are? The system seems a little unconventional and may be difficult to work on.
Do you have a means for measuring the air pressure in the tank and maintaining it at the correct value?
If the pressure gauge and pressure switch freeze they may damaged and no longer reliable. The inside and outside gauges should read the same if the elevations are nearly the same. You must be certain that your gauges are good or you won't be able to determine what is wrong.
I would start with the pump and tank system and when that is working well you can deal with the Aquastar.
You should have a gauge installed permenently inside where it is protected from freezing and you can monitor it easily. If your system has been working well at 32 and 50 psi, then you should try to get it to that point.
With a 32 psi start pressure the air precharge pressure in the bladder tank, with the tank empty of water, should be 30 psi when measured with a tire gauge that matches your water pressure gauge. You can check the gauges against each other by measuring the air pressure when there is water in the tank. When there is water in the tank the air pressure and the water pressure should be the same.
If the pressure switch isn't controlling 32 to 50 then it may be frozen or damaged from freezing. After the pump/tank system is working consistently you can work on the water heater.
Do you have a means for measuring the air pressure in the tank and maintaining it at the correct value?
If the pressure gauge and pressure switch freeze they may damaged and no longer reliable. The inside and outside gauges should read the same if the elevations are nearly the same. You must be certain that your gauges are good or you won't be able to determine what is wrong.
I would start with the pump and tank system and when that is working well you can deal with the Aquastar.
You should have a gauge installed permenently inside where it is protected from freezing and you can monitor it easily. If your system has been working well at 32 and 50 psi, then you should try to get it to that point.
With a 32 psi start pressure the air precharge pressure in the bladder tank, with the tank empty of water, should be 30 psi when measured with a tire gauge that matches your water pressure gauge. You can check the gauges against each other by measuring the air pressure when there is water in the tank. When there is water in the tank the air pressure and the water pressure should be the same.
If the pressure switch isn't controlling 32 to 50 then it may be frozen or damaged from freezing. After the pump/tank system is working consistently you can work on the water heater.
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unconventional is a very nice way of putting it.the well was installed 15 years ago,when apparently bieng the only guy with a well rig meant you could do whatever you wanted.my neighbors case was even worse,they dug the well in the driveway and used every piece of pipe they could bring on the truck.we had to go 385' was what they were told.mine is 170'.there is no way to access the pressure tank right now.i can get to the switch,which i could replace,then test the pressure in the house again.that seems like my only option to me.if that doesn't work it looks like i will have to install a tank system for the winter.i don't think i could use the powervent line from the bosch so i would prob. be going electric.in the spring i will have to run a new electric line from the new pressure switch and tank in the house to the well pump.what a mess.i also would be hoping that the failing system would have enough presssure to work with the electric wh for the rest of the winter.see anything i am missing?thanks
Bob NH
In the Trades
If I had to deal with the system I would put a pressure tank, pressure switch, and gauge in a non-freezing environment, such as your house.
Since there is already power at the pump you could run a low-voltage (24 Volt) line across the snow to a relay at the pump, or to the nearest location where the power to the pump is available. Then you could ignore the underground tank and the pressure switch at the well. You would need a 120 to 24 Volt transformer (about $15) at the house to operate the contactor at the pump.
The pressure switch under the well cap is a terrible installation because of the humidity effect on the contacts. I'm surprised it is still working at all.
With the pressure switch at the tank at the house the pump will take care of pressure losses from the existing tank to the house and you should have plenty of pressure for the Aquastar.
Since there is already power at the pump you could run a low-voltage (24 Volt) line across the snow to a relay at the pump, or to the nearest location where the power to the pump is available. Then you could ignore the underground tank and the pressure switch at the well. You would need a 120 to 24 Volt transformer (about $15) at the house to operate the contactor at the pump.
The pressure switch under the well cap is a terrible installation because of the humidity effect on the contacts. I'm surprised it is still working at all.
With the pressure switch at the tank at the house the pump will take care of pressure losses from the existing tank to the house and you should have plenty of pressure for the Aquastar.
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