Control Box buzzing

Users who are viewing this thread

malars2

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Buncombe
Last Sunday morning my kids realized that our water was off. We have had problems with out well pump previously, so I just assumed that was our problem. We have a 250' deep well that uses black flexible water line, so I decided that I would just pull the pump myself. Instead of checking the control box or anything else, I just straight to pulling it. When I put the pump in a couple of years, I knew that the 3/4 HP pump would eventually succumb to failure. It wasn't rated to work at the depths required of it, but I have a family of seven and couldn't wait to order a different pump. This time I actually found a 1 HP pump at Menards, so I picked one up and installed it. I also installed the new control box, but the pump still wouldn't start.

After the new pump wouldn't work, I thought I might need to change out the pressure switch. The old plumbing was in bad shape, so I also decided to switch out the well tank as well. We had a 20 gal tank before, but I upgraded it to a 52 gallon tank. I plumbed the tank and installed the new pressure switch, but the control box is still buzzing. I'm now at a loss for what to do next. I didn't know if I damaged the wire when I pulled the pump, but I disconnected the well pump from power and the control box still buzzed. I plan to call the well contractor in our area, but I thought I might get some ideas here. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
33,161
Reaction score
3,262
Points
113
Location
IL
Check that you have 240 volts to the input to the control box (fed by the pressure switch).

You could have a bad wire or connection.

You could also try ohming out the 3 power wires out of the control box to each other and ground.
 

malars2

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Buncombe
That’s great advice. It does seem like there is something electrical going on.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
33,161
Reaction score
3,262
Points
113
Location
IL
Also, if you have a clamp-around ammeter, it might be interesting to see what each wire is carrying.

If you put the clamp around the 3 wires that go down the well at the same time, the current should measure near zero. The currents in and out cancel ideally, but the cancellation is going to be imperfect, even in a good system. But if there is a ground fault down the well, then the net current is going to be higher.

Similarly, if you have a ground wire running down to the pump, that wire should show zero current.
 
Top