6" brass nipple vs dielectric union

[PDupuis]

I have a Smith 40 Gallon (GVRL) Water Heater. Called them up and seems the factory anode is 16" aluminum. This unit was installed in 2014, so is 9 years old now. Hot line seems fine although you can see some corrosion on the cold line. They recommended draining the tank, flushing it if there's residue and replacing the anode as well replacing both fittings with dielectric unions.
After little research, seems the longer the anode the better. As long as it doesn't touch the bottom of the tank. I can purchase a 44" flexible anode and simply cut it to size, although would anyone know what length I should purchase for my GVRL 40? Also, I live in the Houston area with hard water and would assume that the aluminum/zink anode would be the best cost affective option?

Many experts on this site do not support dielectric unions and say to use a 6" brass or stainless nipple, which is better? The brass would screw directly into the water heater? Would you all recommend replacing the hot line connection as well, seeing that it has no corrosion? Or best just leave it?

I'm obviously very new to this and I much appreciate the help!

 

[Breplum]

All plumbers know that dielectric unions are a bad idea.
They corrode on the galvanized end and self-clog. Terrible.
Brass or stainless steel nipples are excellent option.
Your little leak-related rust is nothing to be concerned about.
The flex connectors are dielectric in the first place and at 9 yrs old that WH is fine as is.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[PDupuis]

Thanks Breplum. That would make sense concerning the leak as the rust hasnt worsened since I go into the house, which makes me think it was preliminary caused from a small leak on install.
I've noticed that many experts here have emphasized not to replace fittings or connectors unless necessary as the repairs often lead to problems.
Any advice on the anode? I cant justify 100$ for a powered anode! Thinking the longest possible aluminum/zinc installed pink Teflon should be fine?

 

[Reach4]

Any advice on the anode? I cant justify 100$ for a powered anode! Thinking the longest possible aluminum/zinc installed pink Teflon should be fine?

If you are not getting H2S smell, a sacrificial anode is fine.

 

[Breplum]

I went to replace the anode on my 7 y.o. WH. It was solid as the day it went it and just had some calcium carbonate/white powdery mineral buildup.
I was astonished. Unfortunately I had to bend it coming out and just used an articulated with nipple replacement.
So, you'd be best off with feedback from your general area water district.

 

[PDupuis]

All plumbers know that dielectric unions are a bad idea.
They corrode on the galvanized end and self-clog. Terrible.
Brass or stainless steel nipples are excellent option.
Your little leak-related rust is nothing to be concerned about.
The flex connectors are dielectric in the first place and at 9 yrs old that WH is fine as is.

House inspector had mentioned to replace corroded fitting, but not needing replacement, would it be be possible or advisable to try to clean the rust with wire brush and vinegar and maybe pray it with rust dissolve/inhibitor? Or would that not prevent the rust from spreading and only be superficial?

 

[PDupuis]

Cleaned the rust with 50% vinegar. Looks much better. Changed my 10-year old anode rod (it was down to the bone, 0% left) and flushed the tank 4 times to get all the sediment out. Hopefully get a couple more years out of the tank.

On that note, how to know when I need a new tank?

 

[Jeff H Young]

As soon as your bank ballance hits 2 000 call me to swap out that tank LOL.
I actually changed my anode about a year ago 5 years it was pretty ugly flushed tank a bunch of times I almost never do that. 8 , 10 year old lines are getting up there but everything cost money . Id concider changing flex lines but kinda late as the tank might be short lived , If its in a really bad area as far as damage Id plan a change , if its in garage might just hold off till I see signs of leak