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Ok, that sounds good - thanks. Good to have some options.

Yep, it's all coming out. Sandwiching a flexible rubber disc between two steel plates and compressing them together with a bolt might be better.

If it helps anyone else out, I decided to keep the leaky globe valve as a flow adjuster and rely on a secondary ball valve upstream as a proper shut off come spring.

My best idea would be to shape a piece of scrap steel and worm gear clamp it to the casing. Seal it with a gasket and/or some silicone.

A bailer bucket for manually pulling water out of a well, a tube made of PVC or steel tied to a rope.

I'm wondering how to plug a ~1" hole in my well casing where the pitless adapter pokes through. Removing the pitless adapter would give a bailer more room to pass by. It's a 6" steel casing and the pitless is only a foot below grade. Any suggestions?

My mom's municipality asks her to run a trickle of water all winter due to a shallow supply line that would otherwise freeze. The trickle is controlled by a globe valve that I've had to replace twice in the last few years. They fail to shut off in the spring due to seat pitting. I don't know if...

Lots to learn here, I appreciate the tips. I do want to constrict the flow down to what will likely be a short length of potable garden hose. Unrestricted flow from my pump is too violent for my needs. I can't find pressure specs for the two brass bleeders that I've been able to find so far...

That's great, thank you very much LL. With a 4' frost level, I think my only other question would be how deep a drain-back / bleeder valve should be to avoid freezing. I really don't know what the temperature is like inside of a 20' steel well casing buried in limestone in the dead of winter.

Hello, I'm looking for a way to drain my plumbing back into my well. It's a simple setup where I'd like to manually control my submersible well pump so that I can fill an open tank with water in freezing temps and let the plumbing drain itself between uses. I'm assuming that the bleeder type...

Okay, thanks for the response Wayne

Can an outdoor service panel be mounted to the outward face of vertical battens where I have board and batten siding? This would create a 1" gap behind the panel in some areas due to the profile of the siding. I don't know what code specifies. All of the interior service panels that I've seen...

That answers my question, thanks for the responses. Quite an interesting topic actually.

That sounds like something I should've learned decades ago. Thank you

Ok, that makes more sense to me.

Is there a risk when running long extension cords with high amp tools off of standard house wiring? I use a 50 ft, 12 gauge extension cord with my 15 amp power tools, but often consider that homes are often wired with a smaller 14 gauge wire (?). I've seen plugs melt on extension cords which...

Thanks for the tips. Another option that I found was to use a drain back system. I believe it requires a bladderless pressure tank and a snifter valve... but I've only read about it. I think leaving for the winter would be easier.

Ok, I'll look into it - thanks guys

Can plumbing run through the studs behind a surface mounted electrical panel? I've been reading up on the required unobstructed space in front of, above and below a panel. If my surface mount panel sits at shoulder height, can I run copper pipe through the studs closer to the floor? (I'm...

Ok, that's good news - thanks a lot John