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Does the unifit need to sit level, front to back? I have an old cast iron flange that sits slightly above my tile floor, which will make the unifit higher in the front. Is that OK, or should I shim the back and use slightly longer screws to set it in place? Or do I need to do surgery on the flange?

My son just bought a house in Maine that came with a 1990's vintage oil-fired Burnham boiler, which currently provides DHW via an internal coil. I know it's a terribly inefficient way to make DHW, but on the other hand we're only talking about 1 shower a day and some dishes (no dishwasher)...

I need some additional radiation in my basement family room to replace a meager amount of baseboard that just isn't cutting it at the low water temps I'm running with the new modcon. The room is about 15 X 22 with 7 foot ceilings. Walls are below-grade concrete with a layer of beadboard...

My system is piped primary/secondary. There's a 3-speed pump inside the boiler that I have on its lowest setting. I have a Grundfos Alpha that supplies water to the zones that I've been running in 'auto-adapt' mode. When the system is stable at near-design outdoor temps the Alpha indicates...

Now that we've had a decent stretch of real New England winter weather I think I've found the sweet spot for the outdoor reset curve on my new boiler, which is a Bosch Greenstar 57. It's installed in a 1940 1400 sq ft reasonably well-insulated cape. We started with a fuel-based heat loss...

I have a Bosch Greenstar with an internal circulator pump and am wondering where to set it for highest efficiency. It has 4 manual speed settings and the factory default is 3, which is where my installer left it. The documentation says run it as low as possible but doesn't provide any guidance...

One of the things I'm noticing about my new Bosch Greenstar 57 is that it will shut down sometimes even though the thermostat is still calling for heat. For example: it'll be 50F outside and the boiler will be sending out 90F water based on where I've set the curve. (Base Point 80F, Design Day...

Hi All: I'm helping a neighbor with a heating system decision. Her situation is: Small cape in southern Maine Hasn't had a heat loss calc done but it has to be less than or at most equal to mine (30,000 Btu/hr) Maybe some insulation but she's not really sure (I obviously recommended an energy...

Does anybody on the board have any advice or preference as to whether the FW200 on my new Bosch Greenstar boiler should be installed on the boiler or be wall-mounted and used as a room sensor/thermostat? I'm using a Bosch-certified installer but they've never used it in a wall mount application...

It looks like Bosch has some new controllers that look like an intelligent complement to the ODR and FW200 boiler control. Does anyone have any experience with them or understand how they work, and if they might be worth trying? This is all I can find, from their brochure.... "Controllers...

In an earlier thread you guys helped me get my head around how to arm myself with enough good data to argue against what seems to be a common inclination for heating contractors to want to install oversized equipment. I just wanted to follow up for the benefit of others to reinforce that using...

A contractor with whom I've discussed my new boiler install is recommending 3 Grundfos circulator pumps. This confused me because the current boiler operates off one internal pump and supplies 2 heating zones and an indirect DHW tank via zone valves. The proposed system is a TT-60 that will...

Dear experts: Now that you guys (well, Dana in this case) have helped me figure out heat loss and boiler size I have a venting question. I won't be able to use the location of my existing sidewall vent for the new boiler since we're putting in a screen porch and deck in that area. I have...