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Found it..........it's 36mm

I was able to replace the supply line without taking the tank out. But I can't access the nut As suggested above, would a deep socket work? Would you know the size actually? Thanks

Hello How do I replace the fill valve on this model of toilet, without removing the tank? The nut is lodged into a recessed area, so I don't see how I can remove it easily Is a special wrench needed? that seems weird.....!

Hello In the 2nd bathroom (kids bathroom I guess) the current toilet is way too low (14-1/2) My daughter is now 16, and I want to install a higher one (16-1/2 or so) But I want to find the shortest one depth wise.....Front edge of the bowl is currently around 26-3/4" from the finished wall, and...

Are you saying i should tighten it more?

No, i completed to reach half turn ( maybe a little bit more, lets say 200 deg). And i found it was kind of tight to reach that half turn

Thanks to all the good advice.....Went to Harbor Freight and picked up a set of crowfoot wrenches. I used the 3/4" to tighten a little bit more the valve Now I have made a good half turn, and it was pretty tight actually I really don't see how I could go up to 1 full turn.....!!!!

I think an angle wrench is what i need.......

That means a wrench with the open end being at 90 deg with the handle..... Does this type of wrench exist?

No, I'm not superman.....I guess I'm normally constituted :) Maybe if I force on the vavle, I might be able to rotate it....But it's not loose for sure I think the "problem" is I'm using straight valves, and I'm trying to keep the handle facing me So the only way to grab the valve is from behind...

I've just installed 2 of them....the 1st one, I did a little less than a half turn, and on the other one a complete half turn I have no leak at all...... But now I'm concerned about the valve being properly secured with a little less than 1/2" turn Or if there is no leak, does it mean it's just...

Grrr......Hope they are not junk !!! I thought if they were sold at a plumbing supply store where pros buy material, I should be safe......

I went to a plumbing supply store, and got "Everflow" valves that have metal balls - And they were cheaper than at HD or Lowes ($7 vs $9) For the installation, I've read from 1/2 turn up to 2 full turn to properly tighten them.....2 full turns seems a lot !!!

Which compression fitting shut-off valve would you recommend? Brasscraft from Home Depot (the ball seems to be plastic) or the ones from Lowes (ball seems to be metal).....or none of them?

It was just a quick dry fit for the picture......So yes, I will have to glue a short piece of pipe into the fitting in the wall, and then the trap adapter on the other side By the way, I've found a trap adapter without any rubber washer. Looks like the washer is integrated into the slip joint...

Grrrrrrr.....don't want to open the wall, so I'll get a tailpiece extension and lower the p-trap then !!!! I find the junction tailpiece (1.25") - ptrap (1.5") a little bit "woobly"...Is this normal, or there are better quality p-trap kits (I got mine at HD for $3.46...)

I've just installed 2 drop in sinks on a laminate countertop Now, I need to install the p-traps One of the stub-out is lower than the other one See pictures: Is my only option to extend the tail pieces, then the p-trap arms are aligned with the drain in the wall? Or can I do something that...

Yep, makes perfect sense to me.... Would you rate compression stop valves equally than Sharkbite stop valves, or compression are better?

I'm still reading people recommending to use dope or teflon tape......I thought they were meant to be use without all of that........!!!

OK, so I've finally installed my 2 Kohler sinks.....I've used the DAP Kwik Seal Plus Premium Kitchen and Bath adhesive sealant Next step is to install the pop-up drains, p-trap.............and shut-off valves (which scares me actually)