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1) hope you have liability insurance. 2) don't use so much teflon tape, it will break fittings At best, the relief valve would only blow out and lodge in the poor customer's brain as he's filling the tank through that schrader valve. Take note, don't get cocky here. Some of us are...

You're joking right? Those are dielectric nipples with heat-traps on that old rheem. Probably what helped it last this long.

+1 I've often wished that myself.

I solder up the shower valves before the valve is mounted, usually just enough pipe and fittings to get me away from the wood. Sure, it burns up a few couplings but the wood doesn't get charred. I agree on those shut-offs. They are more of a liability if there is no access to them.

Weir of the trap has no bearing on horizontal venting height, only on distance of trap to vent, offsets before vent and tailpiece length. But on to what you meant. MN Plumbing Code: http://www.revisor.leg.state.mn.us/bin/getpub.php?pubtype=RULE_CHAP&year=current&chapter=4715 While...

MN says this about about traps (with emphasis added): http://www.revisor.leg.state.mn.us/bin/getpub.php?pubtype=RULE_CHAP&year=current&chapter=4715

Pre-rinse sprayer? Mop faucet used as feed for chemical/soap dispenser?

I've seen several instances of storm drain piping in old homes. These were usually run from the base of the gutter downspouts, into the dwelling below grade and tieing into the sanitary through a running trap. The running trap prevented sewer odors from venting at the downspouts.

Teeing off will reduce wait time for hot water, eg: Shaving before showering. Teeing off will also ease installation of a recirc in the future.

Neither have I, but I've looked through the clear plastic housing and saw it.

I use a General freeze kit where I work, CO2 setup. Runs up to 2" steel. I always make sure I have 2 20# tanks full before I freeze. We bill out the CO2 and $100 for the kit. Depending on the application, the customer is always getting a deal on that.

The inner stem on the 1225 is half-mooned in the mixing stage of the stem, so there are no diagonal o-rings.

Primary control, motor and transformer are the only potential problems. Check this site: http://www.bockwaterheaters.com/Products/oil_water_heaters.html Looks like the 32E or 33E would be your choice, depending on unit height.

If you haven't noticed, the newest (past 20 years or better) trends are to have the stopper within the vessel it serves. This serves to keep the vessel more sanitary. A vessel without an integral overflow is not meant to be used in conjunction with a stopper, at least in bathrooms.

I use a TIF 8800A. I've had this model for ~6 years (and short of replacing the rechargeable batteries once, and a tip after it got messed up with rectorseal when I borrowed it to a co-worker), it has worked like a charm. I rely on this tool, and have much more faith in it than I do soap...

Unless your ejector is air operated, it is fine to tie in with the other vents.

Contact your water utility for a new tailpiece.

How about vents? Or do you spend the big bucks and use vent 90's, lol.

I would add to the above with: Dump the closet (via san tee) into stack above the double combo for your horizontal branches. Being your horizontals are already vented, this will prevent potential siphonage of the closet.

San tee on it's back is suitable for venting in MN. I've put in a few in ND, but I think they're just amazed at seeing a vent. :D