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Just seem like AAV is SOOO much easier...than all that piping...

Know this thread is old but wondered why you don't use an AAV(Studor Vent)?

Yes. That's it. My new single drain sink in an island, with AAV and is a single drain into the disposal. So lots of fun under there...

Checked with City of Littleton code/inspectors and they said it's fine to do the undercounter air gap as shown in the State code here: http://www.sos.state.co.us/CCR/GenerateRulePdf.do?ruleVersionId=1205 section 807.4

That calculator you linked said the total load was ~40,000 BTU for ~2000 sq ft house. I don't know.

So my load is closer to 20 BTU/hr per square for the whole house... so for 144 sq ft kitchen ... <3,000 But not sure how this helps me figure out anything w/ the UltraFin system.

I think the Ultra Fin might be exactly what I need. I'm really not sure how I'd figure out the heat load...but the previous baseboard heated kitchen was 12x12. Again all the walls are gone now and the old entry hall, living room and dining room still have the original baseboard heat on their...

If you're saying I could attach some 1/2" PEX to my existing piping where the previous baseboard was and run it back and forth with some type insulation product holding it up against the subfloor below, I'm up for that!

I should add that the baseboard heater that was there was 5 ft long, 3/4" copper pipe, 190 F max, guessing it's a 1 gpm although the pump, boiler, zone valves don't say. So thinking that's probably ~3000-4000 but/hr, so the Mason Whispa iii should be good for the heat I need and is rated very quiet.

I removed the interior walls, took Out the living room kitchen and dining room walls so there's literally no walls to put a baseboard or radiator in. The kitchen "wall" is all cabinets. The radiant floor system would be great but costs thousands from the estimates I've had, and that's just the...

Great thanks! My project is slightly different because I'm using the hydronic heat system. The temperatures of the hot water are a bit lower so I may put it in the cabinet under the sink. At least partly because that will be easier for me…

Ok I'll put in the air gap on the counter it's in an island sink with granite and thought it would be nice to have fewer obstruction for the sink/counter etc.

Curious if you ever installed these toe kick heaters and what your experience with them was?

Did you ever install one of those toe kick heaters as I'm thinking about it too.

Ok so given that I'll have run into separate trap to have the air gap under counter

Thinking of installing one of these toe kick heaters to take the place of a baseboard hydronic unit in a series loop because I took out all the walls. Any experience with them? One is a Myson Whispa iii and the other is a Beacon Morris Twin Flow Not sure I can post links but here's my try...

Reach4 thanks! So reading that code...what is considered the flood level of the sink?

Is there such a thing as an undercounter air gap? Is an air gap needed or required if drains to disposal?

I guess I'll go w/ the Moen. The Winnelson Supply here has them on clearance for $40. Which as best I can tell is about 70% off. I have liked the Delta products I've used, but never tried Moen so wanted to make sure it wasn't a lemon. Thanks

I have a Delta kitchen faucet that had a problem w/ the ball and the spray handle (it was the kind w/ the spray handle/spout all in one) and they sent a new one quickly and I haven't had a problem since (4 yrs). I want to get the least problematic but customer service/warranty is important...