Questions about Fridge cabinet build in

[K.G14]

Hi,

I'm looking to attempt to build gables around our fridge and install the 30x15 little cabinet. I haven't found much info and very detailed videos explaining everything.

I want to start my questions with the floor and go up, we are installing a floating engineering hardwood floor... How do I even attach the gables to the floor? even using L brackets?

My next question is how much overhang do I allow, we are using a counter depth fridge 23" deep, I've tried looking at many pictures and can't tell how much from the cabinet the sides extend. Should I have them sit flush with the cabinets so the draws open fine or allow 1"-2" extra.

Now the fridge is a 36" wide model, Do I make everything snug and tight, we are selling the house with all the appliances.

Now moving to the upper cabinet, I know most people use a deep cabinet but thought I would use the 30x15 cabinet we bought years ago still in the box. I'm going to leave dead space behind everything but wasn't sure does everything sit flush with the fridge or extend.

I have a good view of the finish product but have some small problems I was hoping the pro's could help.

thank you

 

[hj]

The unit probably needs a considerable "air space" around it for air circulation. How is a 30" cabinet going to fit over a 36" refrigerator. How are you using "gables" around the refrigerator?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[K.G14]

The unit probably needs a considerable "air space" around it for air circulation. How is a 30" cabinet going to fit over a 36" refrigerator. How are you using "gables" around the refrigerator?

After I posted my question I thought about that, was thinking using filler strips to centre the 30" cabinet. There's also the option to just buy a 30" fridge.

This was my end goal

 

[hj]

a 24" cabinet depth 30" wide refrigerator would be almost useless for anything other than a studio apartment with a single occupant.

 

[DougB]

Get the installation manual for the refrigerator. It will tell you the cabinet dimensions. Is it meant to be built in? Built in units are made so the condenser is on the top - vented.

 

[Jadnashua]

The GE, counter depth refrigerator I have has the cabinet walls essentially, tight to the sides. The instructions said you have to leave at least 1" air space above it. I used a 36" wide, deep cabinet above it. It's been working fine now since 2000. YOu do need to read the instructions on required air gaps, if any, are required, for the frig you select. FWIW, the compressor/condenser on mine is on the bottom. Those designed for a real, built-in, tight fit (no gaps anywhere, usually don't put them on the bottom, but in mine, with the gap at the top, seems to work fine. It did meet Energy Star requirements at the time.

FWIW, I also have an engineered, floating wood floor. I did not run the finished floor beyond a couple of inches from the front, and then put a piece of plywood on top of the subflooring that was the same thickness as my finished floor. This let me use some L-brackets and cleats to anchor the bottom of the sidewalls and vertical edge at the back. The cabinets abut it on one side, and are screwed together, giving is great stability after also screwing it to the studs in the wall behind.

 

[FullySprinklered]

Thanks for using the term fridge instead of frig. Two totally different things.