Recent content by ngen33r

The house did have a sump pump at some point and it was removed and the hole cemented long before I bought the house. The floor drain does have a trap. It follows the path of the 3in line on the wall and it is connected to a 4in line about 6 feet to the left. I had that section redone because...

I have a floor drain in the basement floor that I would like to put a countertop cabinet over. This was the drain used for the old utility sink. Knock on wood I have not had any flooding so it doesn't get much use. The line with the red cap is a cleanout for my footer drains, which is where the...

I finished my rough in and pan install for my basement shower. The plan was to use HardiBacker and some form of membrane to seal it. I read that Hardi is a pain in the ass to apply anything to because of how absorbent it is, so I am thinking of taking those down and going a different route. I...

All of my notches are 1.5in of wood before the 3in pipe. All of my 3/4 horizontal PEX runs are 3in minimum setback. I will still probably use nail guards on everything to be OCD. I will probably foam around the 3in pipe to fully secure the run as I left tolerance gaps to have some wiggle room...

I made a reply a week or so back and it must not have stuck. The cap for the washer pipe is to keep the gases contained. I am going to put a AAV in the rim joist location in the ceiling until I redo the kitchen and can vent to the roof. I appreciate the info with the nail plates and securing...

As stated, please have a look and give me some pointers on my PEX install.

Thank You for the quick reply. I will follow that advice and secure the supply lines with sufficient bends and add additional support for the diverter valve. I will post an image when complete for future reference for others.

I am starting to run the supply and lines to my basement bathroom remodel. I am using a mix of PEX and Copper as needed. My valve is PEX feed and that helps in this scenario, because I have a bend behind the floor joist that cannot easily be soldered. Sure I could notch out the top plate for the...

What about the top of the blocks and rim joist area? Is a foam kit enough if I overlap the top of the PolyIso or should I use a PolyIso topper and then foam to fill?

Just venting because the cmu walls aren't square and its making the framing that is supposed to hold the poly iso against the wall have gaps of 1/4in - 1/2in in some places. Not sure if that is acceptable. Do I need to foam the gaps? I also installed the foil side facing in so the foil tape is...

One last question the foil face against the wall or facing inside the basement?

Problem solved. HD sells PolyIso for the same price as XPS. They just don't clearly mark it. I exchanged the XPS for 1in PolyIso R6.5 and grabbed some foil tape. Back to work now.

I will switch over to eps also since my ceiling is only 82in can I use the 14in scraps between the studs and foam them in place? That would give me R10 above grade 4 foot down the wall. I know I will have some thermal leakage through the studs but in my mind it sounds like it will be a good...

Would that be only for the winter months? I open the windows frequently during the summer months. I would also think that the plexi would condensate when it is cold. and damage the drywall.

I am starting to insulate the basement and frame the walls. I am in Zone 5 so I am using R-5 XPS on the walls and I will do R15 paper backed fiberglass inbetween the studs. I am gluing the seams with PL300 vs taping. I may tape the seams after but not sure if I will need to. I have glass block...