ngen33r
Member
I am starting to run the supply and lines to my basement bathroom remodel. I am using a mix of PEX and Copper as needed. My valve is PEX feed and that helps in this scenario, because I have a bend behind the floor joist that cannot easily be soldered. Sure I could notch out the top plate for the wall, but I would rather not unless I have to.
I have 3 questions.
Is it acceptable to loop the supply and maintain a minimum 5in radius or should I crimp a brass 90 for the bend? This applies for both the supply and white line that will feed a 2nd shower head. My thoughts are to minimize the connection points. I have a good ring crimper and a go/no go gauge to check all the crimps.
The wall is an outside wall and I have 1in PolyIso against DryLoc painted Cinder Block and I want to fill the cavity with R13 (3in partition wall) Will I have potential mold issues with pipe sweating and insulation if I use unbacked insulation?
I have the 2 way diverter sweated to the main valve. The valve did not come with a mounting bracket, but it does have mounting holes. Do I need to add a 2x4 behind it with some nylon standoffs to secure the diverter valve?
I have 3 questions.
Is it acceptable to loop the supply and maintain a minimum 5in radius or should I crimp a brass 90 for the bend? This applies for both the supply and white line that will feed a 2nd shower head. My thoughts are to minimize the connection points. I have a good ring crimper and a go/no go gauge to check all the crimps.
The wall is an outside wall and I have 1in PolyIso against DryLoc painted Cinder Block and I want to fill the cavity with R13 (3in partition wall) Will I have potential mold issues with pipe sweating and insulation if I use unbacked insulation?
I have the 2 way diverter sweated to the main valve. The valve did not come with a mounting bracket, but it does have mounting holes. Do I need to add a 2x4 behind it with some nylon standoffs to secure the diverter valve?