Copper ProPress Slow Drip

[Rossn]

I have a Viega ProPress fitting that has a slow drip (1 drip every 2-1/2 minutes) at around 55 psi. It's in an inconvenient location to replace without a fair bit of rework. I've re-pressed it once from the same orientation, but can't really get to a different orientation.

Is this common? Any ideas for solutions that don't require complete replacement?

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

I have only had one bad press leak that I did have to tear out. Could never figure out why it leaked. Repressing is ok, but I think it needs to be in a different orientation. You can braze that fitting in place if its a better option than replacement.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Rossn]

Thanks for the response, TR! I had no idea it could be brazed. I think the issue for me would be proximity to other press fittings, and the risks associated with damaging those other elements, but let me know if you think differently.

I wish I could get on it from another orientation (with flats aligned), but as you can see it is a tight location and I don't have the press rings.

Interestingly enough, after having the water off and back on last night for some other work, it has stopped dripping. After today, I hook a re-circ up to that valve, and it will be much harder to replace. Thanks for the thoughts.

PS: If I can't fit a close quarters tubing cutter, what is the best way to cut out the fittings, keeping the remaining tubing in good shape for pressing a slip coupling?

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

Yeah, that seems like its way too close to the valve and the tee to braze. Theres not enough flex in the work to get a different angle on the press tool? Its just like 10° difference that you would need.

Otherwise it looks like you're replacing the 2 tees, the 90 and the valve and adding 3 couplings.

 

[Rossn]

When I spoke to Viega tech, they mentioned that I should only re-press with the flats aligned, though possibly a different orientation, stating that if I press with flats not aligned, you lose the 300psi rating and the joint could come apart. Unfortunately, I pressed this fitting around horizontal, instead of high or low to start with, so I can't quite get to the next flat. Lesson learned on that, when pressing in tight locations!

However, you did get me thinking. With the drywall in the room behind this getting re-done, I could literally cut a hole through the wall and press from the back side.

All this said, I'm not sure how to interpret it no longer dripping (just as of this morning). In your experience, is it common for a drip to stop and re-start?

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

In my experience if that stopped dripping its likely to stay stopped. Especially on hot. But theres a risk vs reward you have to think of now.. is it cost effective to remove it now while reletively cheap.. vs later when its dripped for months unseen and theres more fittings affected.

 

[Rossn]

Yeah, point well made. The good thing is that if the risk of the drip being worse than it was is low, the risk of damage/mold/etc is minimal to none, given it is in the utility room with hard surfaces only. The only advantage to repairing it now versus later is tying in the recirc pump. I will see if I can do that in a manner minimizes difficulty of replacement and think that since I have 6 months or more left on my remodel, I have some time to watch it and possibly press from the other side of the wall.

 

[Seiyafan]

Once I bought a Viega fitting from Supplyhouse with a fifth of the O-ring missing. Luckily I checked before doing the press, so the worst damage was only time delay for the project.

 

[Rossn]

That's bizarre. I've been trying to have a look at the O-rings, but probably missed some.

 

[Jeff H Young]

damn that's one of the downfalls of press a leak or change needed. judgement call on whether to leave it alone or not if its never getting buried I could take a chance especially on my own property

 

[Rossn]

After hooking up some more hot water last night and with those depressurization/re-pressurization cycles that come with some water hammer, it is weeping again, just slower. I might give it another couple re-presses, since I only did that once. If not that, maybe cut the wall if you all say these are usually resolved by re-pressing from a different orientation.

 

[JohnCT]

After hooking up some more hot water last night and with those depressurization/re-pressurization cycles that come with some water hammer, it is weeping again, just slower. I might give it another couple re-presses, since I only did that once. If not that, maybe cut the wall if you all say these are usually resolved by re-pressing from a different orientation.

In the back of my mind, I keep getting this feeling that even if another press stops visible weeping for now, the copper area contacting the O-ring might stay wet leading to corrosion and a bigger leak down the road. That's why I prefer sweating copper: that would take 2 minutes to fix - but that's water under the bridge.

Honestly, if it was mine, I'd cut it back as far as I needed to and redo it (and carefully inspect each new fitting for an intact O-Ring before pressing). Be honest, how many times have you gone down just to check to see if it's leaking? The cost and time would be worth the peace of mind to me.

John

 

[Rossn]

In the back of my mind, I keep getting this feeling that even if another press stops visible weeping for now, the copper area contacting the O-ring might stay wet leading to corrosion and a bigger leak down the road.

You are saying that water will cause the copper to corrode? Aren't the copper and o-ring already continually wet? I'm not understanding that.