Utility Sink in basement - draining to ejector pit and how to vent

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DIYDadJake

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I'm looking to install the pictured utility sink in my basement. Would I be able to drain the sink directly into the top of the ejector pit to avoid having to do the concrete work? Also, would utilizing the vent from the ejector pit be ok or does it need to be on a separate vent or is a vent necessary on such a small drain line with the pit being vented itself? Currently, the only drain going to the pit is the floor drain that you can see in the picture. Any advice would be appreciated! Thank you!

PXL_20210420_024452657.jpg
 

Tuttles Revenge

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What is the pit ejecting currently? If its sewer then you will definately need to make sure it has an air tight seal.

All connections need to be air tight to prevent sewer gases from escaping. Is there a point on the lid that you can drill a hole and make it air tight? Then also the lid is your access to the pump.. can you make it still be accessible once you add a drain into the top of it? Usually we use a union or similar fitting that can be taken apart to allow the lid to be removed and put back in the same manner..

As fare as venting, yes the sink needs its own trap and its own vent. It could tie into the vent that is there now, first choice is a vent that goes through the roof that isn't the sump vent.. but if they're all tied together then any vent so long as its 6" above the flood level of the sink

I can't see how far down the stack goes.. but just to be clear, it is too high for the sink to reach?
 

Michael Young

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I'm looking to install the pictured utility sink in my basement. Would I be able to drain the sink directly into the top of the ejector pit to avoid having to do the concrete work? Also, would utilizing the vent from the ejector pit be ok or does it need to be on a separate vent or is a vent necessary on such a small drain line with the pit being vented itself? Currently, the only drain going to the pit is the floor drain that you can see in the picture. Any advice would be appreciated! Thank you!

View attachment 73325

as long as that pump is designed to handle grey water and sewage, you can dump directly into that pit. You'll need to use a grommet because you're probably going to need to use a hole saw to cut a hole in the lid. For venting, you can just cut in a tee and run your vent straight up. I would probably terminate it in a box and install a wall vent (and top it with an air admittance valve.

upload_2021-4-26_21-56-23.jpeg


-mike
https://homeservicestriad.com/
 

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DIYDadJake

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What is the pit ejecting currently? If its sewer then you will definately need to make sure it has an air tight seal.

All connections need to be air tight to prevent sewer gases from escaping. Is there a point on the lid that you can drill a hole and make it air tight? Then also the lid is your access to the pump.. can you make it still be accessible once you add a drain into the top of it? Usually we use a union or similar fitting that can be taken apart to allow the lid to be removed and put back in the same manner..

As fare as venting, yes the sink needs its own trap and its own vent. It could tie into the vent that is there now, first choice is a vent that goes through the roof that isn't the sump vent.. but if they're all tied together then any vent so long as its 6" above the flood level of the sink

I can't see how far down the stack goes.. but just to be clear, it is too high for the sink to reach?

It's just ejecting the floor drain currently which has the furnace and water softener draining into it. Other than that it would be the sink which will be used mostly for homebrewing, cleaning up, etc.

There is definitely enough room to drill into the top and I could use a grommet like mentioned in another comment to maintain the air tight seal.

The vent looks like it goes up to the bathroom above it, probably ties into a bunch of other vents and then goes through the roof. Not 100% sure though...

Excuse my ignorance and my horrible drawing... But is something like this what you mean by tying in 6" above flood level of the sink? Would this work? This is all new to me and I'm just trying to understand and gain some knowledge. Thanks!
 

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Tuttles Revenge

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It's just ejecting the floor drain currently which has the furnace and water softener draining into it. Other than that it would be the sink which will be used mostly for homebrewing, cleaning up, etc.

There is definitely enough room to drill into the top and I could use a grommet like mentioned in another comment to maintain the air tight seal.

The vent looks like it goes up to the bathroom above it, probably ties into a bunch of other vents and then goes through the roof. Not 100% sure though...

Excuse my ignorance and my horrible drawing... But is something like this what you mean by tying in 6" above flood level of the sink? Would this work? This is all new to me and I'm just trying to understand and gain some knowledge. Thanks!

Connecting to that vent is fine since it originates on this floor and presumably connects to plumbing above or through the roof. We have to assume it was done correct. An AAV could work here because the drain / sump is connected to an atmospheric vent. Either way is fine if its approved in your area.

I would trap the sink, then along the wall stub up with a combination/long sweep tee to vent, then after that have a No Hub band to act as a union, then LT 90 to the basin and in through the air tight connection at the lid. With the no hub band you can take that apart when you need to get into the lid. PS. I'll take a 6 pack pls!

HomeBrew.jpg
 

Michael Young

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It's just ejecting the floor drain currently which has the furnace and water softener draining into it. Other than that it would be the sink which will be used mostly for homebrewing, cleaning up, etc.

There is definitely enough room to drill into the top and I could use a grommet like mentioned in another comment to maintain the air tight seal.

The vent looks like it goes up to the bathroom above it, probably ties into a bunch of other vents and then goes through the roof. Not 100% sure though...

Excuse my ignorance and my horrible drawing... But is something like this what you mean by tying in 6" above flood level of the sink? Would this work? This is all new to me and I'm just trying to understand and gain some knowledge. Thanks!

yes. the drawing is fine. The only thing different I would do is install a separate vent in a wall box and top it with a studor vent. The vent from the pump isn't supposed to be shared. So you would need to pull a separate vent. I suggest a wall vent with an AAV because that's far easier that pulling a vent all the way up and out.
 

DIYDadJake

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Thanks everyone for their reply. I am learning so much by taking your comments and doing some further research. I have a need to know the "why" behind doing something before I do it, so thanks!
 
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