What parts would I need to replace this sink drain pipe?

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by Roishe Cheng, Mar 10, 2014.

  1. Roishe Cheng

    Roishe Cheng New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Riverhead, NJ
    Hi all:

    I changed the faucet in my wife's bathroom and noticed the sink drain just seemed to be in bad condition. No leaks, but I'm wondering why the previous owner of the house had to do this. Perhaps there was some underlying problem they couldn't figure and hacked it. There is a lot of putty on the drain tube (see pic below) with what appears to be different fittings going into the PVC.

    There have been no leaks over the years but it doesn't seem right to me to leave it like this. The home inspector did warn me about it -- credit to him for that.

    What do you recommend? Change everything over to PVC? What parts would I need? There is a Blackman and Homedepot next to my office. I plan to get the parts tonight so I can fix this up proper.

    Thank you in advance.

    [​IMG]
  2. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,911
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    A lav drain will have a 1.25" tail piece. What you have there, is a chromed 1.25" tailpiece that is threaded at the top, and then soldered onto an extension.

    1) Pick up a long threaded tail piece and cut it to size

    2) Use a slip joint extension and keep the short tailpiece you have.

    The p-trap there is a 1.5" with a 1.5" x 1.25" reducer for the tail piece.

    Looks more like some sort of expoxy than putty on there.
  3. Roishe Cheng

    Roishe Cheng New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Riverhead, NJ
    Terry, thanks for the guidance. The substance was very soft and waxy + greasy which reminded me of plumbers putty. It probably got discolored over time.
  4. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,519
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    It is plumber's putty. That extension is a "slip joint", as opposed to "slip nut", and was just slid on to the tailpiece with a snug fit, possibly with some joint compound to help seal it. If it were soldered the chrome would have to have been "filed" off at the solder joint. As stated, a longer threaded tailpiece cut to fit would be the preferred repair.
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2014
  5. Roishe Cheng

    Roishe Cheng New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Riverhead, NJ
    Thanks HJ. I don't believe it is soldered. Will let you know when I take it apart.
  6. SHR

    SHR Member

    Messages:
    96
    Location:
    Minnesota
    I would also recommend you replace the cold water supply line. It is a Watts Floodsafe line and they tend to be nothing but trouble. The concept for them is admirable but in practice they often clog or unnecessarily cut off the water supply. I have been called to many homes with low or no water flow to the faucet and found the Floodsafe supply lines clogged or tripped shut for no obvious reason. They are actually not allowed by plumbing inspectors in St. Paul, MN due to their unreliability. Do yourself a favor and when you go to the store buy a 20" long 3/8" comp. x 1/2" FIP standard braided stainless steel faucet supply line too.
  7. Roishe Cheng

    Roishe Cheng New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Riverhead, NJ
    SHR:

    I had no idea. When I saw them, I thought "cool." Unfortunately, like a lot of "technology," the practice/implementation tends to fall down. Thanks for that bit of info, I will get two additional supply lines.
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