what GPM is my old Berkeley?

Users who are viewing this thread

utility5

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Langley, B.C. - Canada
Hey guys - I'm new to the forum.

I've got an original well set-up dated 1974. All components are original. The well is 151 ft deep and apparently produces 10 GPM. The Berkeley pump is a 1/2hp. The pump contactor box has the following numbers attached:

on one label: Model 44M11 -- Serial 421201E
on the second label: Model 2801030101

The pressure tank appears to be "400L" - suspected to be 110 gallons?

The system supplied a mobile home (2 occupants) and the main dwelling (2 occupants) on the property. We also have 2 head of cattle - 5 pigs - 15 chickens to water.

I have started to research different options in preparation of the day a component fails. I have read about the CSV, and advantages i.e. better for the pump - small tank - constant pressure.

Before failures occur, I suspect the first thing I can do is install a CSV along with a new smaller tank; and utilize the existing pump, until it fails.

I guess my first question after reading some info is, what is the GPM of the old pump? - can't find the info. Secondly, what model of CSV to install? Thirdly, what size tank?

any help is appreciated, thanks.
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,633
Reaction score
1,304
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
That is probably a 7 or 10 GPM pump. You can also continue to use the tank until it fails. With a 40/60 Pressure switch I would use a CSV150 or a CSV1Z. With a 30/50 switch use a CSV140 or a CSV1Z. When the tank fails you can go back with a tank as small as 4.4 gallon size.
 

utility5

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Langley, B.C. - Canada
My current well system has 1 1/4" pipe from the pump to the tank, and same size from the tank to the house (350" away). If I install the CSV150, is there a concern with friction loss considering two facts i.e. internal friction loss in the valve, and the downsized 1" valve from 1 1/4"??

thanks in advance.
 

Ballvalve

General Engineering Contractor
Messages
3,581
Reaction score
45
Points
48
Location
northfork, california
Considering your system has outlived 2 or three other typical ones, it must be well designed and sized. I wouldnt introduce any new components until i was ready to change the pump out. Keep the tank operating corrrectly is your best bet.

I would just stock the parts for the new system so a swap out can be done quickly in the future. You may have to wait years for that day to come.
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,633
Reaction score
1,304
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
Considering your system has outlived 2 or three other typical ones, it must be well designed and sized. I wouldnt introduce any new components until i was ready to change the pump out. Keep the tank operating corrrectly is your best bet.

I would just stock the parts for the new system so a swap out can be done quickly in the future. You may have to wait years for that day to come.

I agree. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
 

utility5

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Langley, B.C. - Canada
I understand the tank was built before the bladder type was introduced, although it operates on pressurized air. The first thought was to change the tank because the air pressure drops within a few months and requires recharging.

I was also thinking about installing the "p-side kick", but can't find the info on the CSV1W??
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,633
Reaction score
1,304
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
If you can't keep air in the tank, then something is broke. You can switch to a bladder tank and a CSV, but you will probably have to plug the air charge system. You can remove the above ground check valve but, if you still get air, you will have to plug the bleeder.


Here is the info in the CSV1W and Pside-kick.
http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/products.html#domestic
 

Ballvalve

General Engineering Contractor
Messages
3,581
Reaction score
45
Points
48
Location
northfork, california
You can add a air intake valve to your tank, one is called a micronizer, a venturi that allows some air in. Perhaps your tank never had an air maker system and the previous owner just pumped it up with an air compressor. I maintain a few standard tanks and pressurize them with a piped in compressed air source every month or two. Until they leak, they are pretty bombproof. Many wells in this area have dissolved oxygen or some gas in the water and therefore keep themselves filled with air without any maintenance.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks