Well Pump sizing and info on Franklin / Schaefer pump 3200 Series

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PumpMd

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I think a better question would be, why use 4" steel pipe? Why not drill & set larger diameter pipe?[/QUOTE]

That is what I meant. 4" steel was never used here even on windmills. 6" steel casing was standard size here
 
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PumpMd

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I don’t see much if any difference between these and Little Giant, Monarch, Utilitech, or any of the other names Franklin uses.

I will stay with the 4 main brands. Little Giant had a place in OKC but I never came across one of them in a well. I definitely don't want to use Utilitech that has the cheap franklin motor on it. I don't mind using Monarch seeing how we got long life out of them.




Back in the 60’s and 70’ we use to sell a lot of Reda pumps. They had a 3” we called a “Pencil Pump”. We mostly used these to replace windmills, as they normally had 3” casing.

I remember my uncle telling me about those pencil pumps. I would like to see one. Was it invented by Reda or Standard who bought Reda?
 
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PumpMd

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After standard, it became General Pump mfg. They were all located here in Oklahoma.
 

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Craigpump

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I don’t see much if any difference between these and Little Giant, Monarch, Utilitech, or any of the other names Franklin uses.




Back in the 60’s and 70’ we use to sell a lot of Reda pumps. They had a 3” we called a “Pencil Pump”. We mostly used these to replace windmills, as they normally had 3” casing.

Never saw a 3" REDA
 

keeena

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3.3 to 3.7gpm for each head on the blue nozzles with 5heads holding at 42-44psi tells me you probably have a 15gpm pump already.

Usually sprinkler guys want 20gpm around here but your sprinkler guy should've done two things with that pump already in place.

1. Had you call the well installer to check what gpm your pump was and what it can do if your static water drops to design your system properly to that pump. The sprinkler guy could ask for more gpm after that.

2. He could've checked the gpm flow rate himself to know he should've stayed around 15gpm.

The data I provided was w/ the new pump installed; 1.5hp, 7gpm pump, 5 heads w/ blue nozzles results in 100% pump duty cycle and the system gauge showing 42psi. The gauge is just after the pressure tank and sediment filters.

The blue nozzles supposedly have a radius nearing 40' @ 42psi. Mine are nowhere near that. I suppose this is due to pump size (gpm), restrictions downstream due to system design, or a leak?

Unfortunately I didn't think of getting specifics of old pump; they simply said it was 1.5hp.

Well pump & irrigation are all inherited with buying the house. And nothing seems to be done particularly right. But this is good info if I work with an irrigation company to fix this stuff in the future.
 

Reach4

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The data I provided was w/ the new pump installed; 1.5hp, 7gpm pump, 5 heads w/ blue nozzles results in 100% pump duty cycle and the system gauge showing 42psi. The gauge is just after the pressure tank and sediment filters.
Nice.

You should also have a pressure gauge at the pressure switch. The pressure switch should be at the pressure tank and before any filter elements.

Having another pressure gauge after the sediment filters is useful to know when the filter elements need changing. If you need to change the sediment filters often, a Twist2Clean filter might be useful to you.
 

Texas Wellman

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I directly asked, at a franklin key dealer meeting, if there was a difference between our pumps and motors and the big box store brands. I was told yes, specifically that the motor adapter was plastic as well as other things. From what I have seen it's these big box pumps that slide the avg age to "7 years".
 

Valveman

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I directly asked, at a franklin key dealer meeting, if there was a difference between our pumps and motors and the big box store brands. I was told yes, specifically that the motor adapter was plastic as well as other things. From what I have seen it's these big box pumps that slide the avg age to "7 years".

Yeah but the windings, bearings, and impellers are all the same. A little plastic for a motor adapter, discharge head, and even the end cap on the motor doesn't make much difference. I think the average is lower on the box stores because homeowners don't usually know the little tricks it takes to make pump last longer like a good pump man does.
 

Craigpump

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Sadly, none of them are what they used to be, which is a mixed blessing for the pump guy. On one hand you sell more product, on the other hand the homeowner begins to lose faith in you because the product has a short life.
 

PumpMd

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oddball zone w/ gear rotors: the system drops to 40psi in 1m20s. Pump takes 2m40s to bring back up to 60. Cycle repeats. Sounds like this is one is not optimal at all.

1 small zone for shrubs and whatnot - haven't measures but hopefully low cycling.

another zone holds 25psi

You need the different nozzles for the other zones
 
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PumpMd

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Yeah but the windings, bearings, and impellers are all the same. A little plastic for a motor adapter, discharge head, and even the end cap on the motor doesn't make much difference. I think the average is lower on the box stores because homeowners don't usually know the little tricks it takes to make pump last longer like a good pump man does.

I just had another WaterAce with the cheaper Franklin motor dated 2002 brought to shop for Pit Test "3-wire" (They usually forget to bring their control box). Tested the motor windings and they were "Perfect" (I usually see them having a faint light showing on the windings but this doesn't keep them from lasting a long time still with a faint light). The motor started and pump tested fine.

As you can tell, I'm going to agree with Valveman but on another note, if you buy your pump from us "DIY" with little more over cost "$50" than those big box stores because we do have a better quality pump and we need make a living as well. We will tell you how to install it right, any other questions you may have call us. If we have to come out for you "DIY" we have saying for you "A lesson bought, is worth $100 taught".
 
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