Toilet bowl is tilting over half an inch due to small wood pieces placed under

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Tamar

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Full bath renovation – the new toilet bowl is tilting over half an inch to the left. I am not sure if it is because the new floor tile install under it was not done properly and is not leveled. I notice it had wood pieces inserted ON THE RIGHT SIDE under it (mind you it make the toilet tilt to the left and it is now raised on the right), before the toilet was permanently sealed into the floor with silicone, and my contractor said he needs to change the ring or something to make it sit right. But last night I saw it has been permanently sealed, still with a couple of small pieces of wood under it, and that it is still tilted. I worry that – first of all the tilt is visible, and that those small pieces of wood with just some silicone holding it, there will be wear and tear over time and then the toilet will start rocking.

We mentioned it to him but he dismissed it. Somehow this doesn’t feel like something I can accept. Any suggestions?
 

Reach4

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Using shims under a toilet rim to stop the potential for rocking is pretty normal. Adding shims for leveling is less common, but I did it using a level. Certainly not what you describe is not normal. If that is full silicone, the contractor will have some work cutting silicone sealant before the toilet can be lifted for the fix.

The shims would better not be wood, because most wood compresses more easily than composite or plastics.

The use of full silicone for this purpose is not good, as discussed recently in this thread: https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/do-not-caulk-around-stools.67392/ Some caulk is important, despite the title of that thread. Let's hope that was not full silicone RTV rubber stuff.

You are not being overly picky on this.
 

Gary Swart

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Toilets are set on a fitting called a flange and is sealed with a wax ring. The flange is supposed to rest on top of the finished floor, however often when a new floor is laid, the flange is not replaced so it is lower than the ideal. This difference is usually made up by a thicker wax ring. Sometimes the floor is uneven so the toilet will not set 100% in contact with the floor, so small shims are used to make sure the toilet is not only level but in full contact with the floor so that it can not move. Movement will break the seal the wax ring has made. A proper installation will also have a latex caulking around the base of the toilet so spilled water can not get under the fixture. Silicone is never used by a qualified plumber because it is very difficult to remove when the toilet needs to be removed. A half inch shim is totally crazy, there has to be something you are not seeing or describing. Like maybe the flange is broken?
 

Tamar

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The shim is not half inch, but it causes further tilting, since it is already a little bit tilted to the left. if anything, it should have been placed on the opposite side to level it. The entire bowl is tilted over half an inch, which makes me wonder why he placed the shims in the first place? I will take a picture later on and post it to show. from reading above, my guess is that they didn't replace the flange and tried to compensate. that makes sense. This creates a space of about half an inch from the base to the floor. a little tilt would be acceptable. a big one is worrying.. I asked him to fix it and money is not an object if he needs new materials. will see what he says..
 

Gary Swart

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Let me back up a tad. When setting a toilet on a new or remodeled floor, first set the toilet over the flange without a wax ring. The toilet should rest evenly on the floor all the way around. Sadly this is not always going to happen. That's where shims come into play. Some folks use coins, some whittle or find something else that will work, but probably the best thing is to pick up a supply of tapered door shims. Put a shim under the low spots as needed. Mark the location then set the toilet aside and place the wax ring on the flange. Put the flange bolts in place and secure them with an extra nut to hold them upright and in place. Now lower the toilet using the flange bolts as a guide. Put the shims back and press the toilet onto the wax ring using straight down body pressure...no rocking or twisting. Put the washers and nuts on the bolts and snug them down...do not use these nuts to pull the toilet down, they are use to hold the toilet from shift and rocking. Now trim the excess off the shims and caulk the edge of the toilet.
 

Terry

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If what you have is setting on a 1/2" shim, it makes me wonder if the old flange was too high after the flooring was replaced.
Can you post some pictures, 800 pixels or less?
 

Tamar

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Thank you very much everyone for your feedback and advise. It enabled me to make my case and feel more confident when I asked him to fix it, and I was just told he fixed it. Apparently the floor was not leveled and they overshot the shims making them way too thick. Now it will only be a couple of millimeters higher on one side which is acceptable. He did end up using wood shims but says its ok, and I am letting that one go. He will also replace the silicone seal with something else.
 
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