Square D pressure switch 9013FSG 2

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Reach4

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There are many web pages that tell how to adjust the pressures: nut on big spring CW to raise cut-on pressure. Nut on small spring CW to raise differential between cut-on and cut off.

I had well work, and as part of it, one of the workers (unrequested but not objected to) adjusted my regulator. Before was operating at 30-50 (but marked 40-60). After that adjustment it was about 38-65. :mad: He did apply a sticker over the name of the previous well company, but did not apply a label with the useful info that existing sticker had. At least he did not cover up the sticker. (All in all I think the overall work was good) I tried adjusting the small nut to bring down the cutoff. It was not having an effect, and I then noticed that I was several threads looser than putting any pressure on the small spring. I will replace the regulator. Is the FSG2J24CP a comparable replacement model, or is it an inferior unit?

At first I had thought maybe I could fix it. I could find no description on the web as to how that regulator works other than in the most generic terms. As near as I can tell, with the terminals down and the springs on top, there is a plate that pushes against the diaphragm linkage. The smaller springs job is to apply a CW torque to the plate when viewed from above. I can work things, but I still wonder about its mechanism.

For price and despite the change-out effort, it is not worth working hard on it. But I still would like to understand its operation beyond how to utilize and adjust it. It would be an interesting Youtube video to a small audience.
 

Valveman

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Loosen the small adjustment screw until it no longer touches the spring. That will give you the minimum differential between on and off that you can get with that switch (usually about 17 PSI). Then adjust the big adjustment screw until it shuts off where you want it.
 

LLigetfa

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The small nut can increase the spread but it cannot decrease it below 20 PSI +/-. Wear and tear can increase the spread as well.

It should be possible to reduce the 38/65 to 38/58 if all is working right. Obviously that is not the case and so it should be replaced.
 

JVance

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I apologize if this is off topic, however it's a switch-related question. When these switches fail, do they often fail in a closed circuit? I just spent a few hours replumbing my neighbor's shallow well pump after it cavitated and melted the PVC fittings off the inlet. After building pressure and continuing to climb well passed 65 psi, adjusting the big spring had no effect on opening the switch. It seems odd that this switch would fail in the closed position (e.g. no fail-safe to open the switch when the switch goes bad?); thoughts?

Ordering a Square D replacement...
 

JVance

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No. Two things commonly go bad that can keep the contacts closed. One is a plugged riser tube and the other is contacts welded shut.

Contacts look fine. Riser tube is a good lead; thanks for the suggestion! I'll check that before ordering a new switch.
 

LLigetfa

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At the base of the springs is a hinged plate that moves up and down with the pressure. As the plate moves up and compresses the spring, a flip/flop should open the contacts. If the plate doesn't move, the riser tube is most likely plugged.

You can watch the plate move and can apply additional force with your fingers to watch it influence the flip/flop. Pressing down on the plate should keep the contacts closed while lifting up on it should cause them to open.
 
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