Softener causing pressure issues.

[Water Guy]

yes. it's an exact replacement to your current. yes, new mineral would be required, however, it's not as easy to replace as it may sound. emptying can be a bear if you haven't done it. it depends if you want to go diy route or relatively plug and play. if relatively plug and play is the choice, consider buying with tank and resin. https://www.affordablewater.us/flec...rpS-9mbF_nYhzrBQG4KzO55IAUPw55JgaAmhXEALw_wcB

 

[Water Guy]

Curtis, a previous commentor stated he has a 'timed softener' (non metered). You appeared to be confirming that incorrect assessment based on your comments in #14.

read my post below. https://www.affordablewater.us/flec...rpS-9mbF_nYhzrBQG4KzO55IAUPw55JgaAmhXEALw_wcB

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jason Kay]

yes. it's an exact replacement to your current. yes, new mineral would be required, however, it's not as easy to replace as it may sound. emptying can be a bear if you haven't done it. it depends if you want to go diy route or relatively plug and play. if relatively plug and play is the choice, consider buying with tank and resin.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm a DIYer so plug and play is my best option since I'm not very familiar with water softeners. The controls/timer seems to work just fine, but it sounds like folks are suggesting to replace that control/timer unit along with the resin. If that's the case, it seems to make sense (cost wise) to replace everything.

I found this unit, which is available locally. https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-40-200-Grain-Water-Softener-GXSH40V/203219780

Or should I find a unit with has a separate resin tank and salt tank (like my current set up)? Like this one https://www.homedepot.com/p/AQUASUR...tal-Metered-Water-Softener-AS-HS48D/311245147

 

[Bannerman]

but it sounds like folks are suggesting to replace that control/timer unit along with the resin.

Only one person suggested replacing the control valve ... with a new one identical to what you already own. The control valve you already own is not a timer unit but is metered controller, and superior to anything you are looking at in the big box store weblinks you posted. You can easily restore the equipment you own.

 

[Water Guy]

in stand by my suggestion if your looking for complete unit. it's much more stought, rebuildable, and overall better system than what you'll find at a big box store. I'm not sure if it comes pre-loaded with mineral, but post up here when it arrives and I'm sure my self or someone else would be happy to help you out with loading, setting and starting procedure. https://www.affordablewater.us/flec...rpS-9mbF_nYhzrBQG4KzO55IAUPw55JgaAmhXEALw_wcB

 

[Jason Kay]

Only one person suggested replacing the control valve ... with a new one identical to what you already own. The control valve you already own is not a timer unit but is metered controller, and superior to anything you are looking at in the big box store weblinks you posted. You can easily restore the equipment you own.

Thanks. I'll look to replace the resin. Would my tank require gravel? It's 8" x 44".

 

[ditttohead]

I am not really sure I understand how replacing the resin is difficult. if a homeowner has the skill level of changing the oil in their own car, then they can certainly replace the resin. Unscrew the valve from the tank, lay the tank on its side and use a garden hose to flush the media out. We have special tools used for extracting the media but since youwill only be doing this once or twice over the life of the system, investing in a $200 tool is silly. Rinse the tank ot, refill with 10 pounds of gravel, and the proper amount of resin. This typically takes about 20-30 minutes.

 

[Jason Kay]

So, when disconnecting from the plumbing, which bracket should I loosen? A or B in the picture attached?

 

[ditttohead]

Yes, either is fine. Be sure to pull the meter cable out if you remove A. I assume you have a 3 valve bypass.

 

[Jason Kay]

Yes, either is fine. Be sure to pull the meter cable out if you remove A. I assume you have a 3 valve bypass.

I can shut the water off to bypass the water softener. That's how I discovered my pressure issue was caused by the softener itself. Thanks.

 

[Reach4]

It's 8" x 44".

That normally takes 3/4 cuft of resin.

A new softener with a 10x54 tank would have twice as much resin.

 

[Bannerman]

As 2.0 GPM DLFC is shown in the photo of the label, I had anticipated your tank to be 9" X 48" which is appropriate for 1 ft3 resin + 10 lbs gravel. Reach4 is correct that an 8" tank is appropriate for 0.75 ft3 resin and 8-10 lbs gravel.

While gravel is not mandatory, it is beneficial to distribute water flow across the diameter of the tank so a higher percentage of the resin will be utilized resulting in slightly less hardness leakage, and also to provide a barrier around the lower screen so if the lower screen should ever become damaged, the resin will be less likely to escape into your home's plumbing system.

Although 0.75 ft3 of resin will have a total manufactured capacity of 24,000 grains, for the best balance of efficiency, capacity and water quality, the usual recommended usable capacity setting will be 18,000 grains per cycle which will require only 6 lbs salt to regenerate.

With the 1,200 grains per day usage that Ditttohead estimated for 2 people @ 60 gallons/each/day, the anticipated regeneration frequency will be 14-15 days, but sooner when there has been additional water consumed such as when there are house guests.

 

[Water Guy]

As 2.0 GPM DLFC is shown in the photo of the label, I had anticipated your tank to be 9" X 48" which is appropriate for 1 ft3 resin + 10 lbs gravel. Reach4 is correct that an 8" tank is appropriate for 0.75 ft3 resin and 8-10 lbs gravel.

While gravel is not mandatory, it is beneficial to distribute water flow across the diameter of the tank so a higher percentage of the resin will be utilized resulting in slightly less hardness leakage, and also to provide a barrier around the lower screen so if the lower screen should ever become damaged, the resin will be less likely to escape into your home's plumbing system.

Although 0.75 ft3 of resin will have a total manufactured capacity of 24,000 grains, for the best balance of efficiency, capacity and water quality, the usual recommended usable capacity setting will be 18,000 grains per cycle which will require only 6 lbs salt to regenerate.

With the 1,200 grains per day usage that Ditttohead estimated for 2 people @ 60 gallons/each/day, the anticipated regeneration frequency will be 14-15 days, but sooner when there has been additional water consumed such as when there are house guests.

I've read the same with 6 lbs, but before that I've always been told 10 by some old timers. do you have any real world experience with the recommend 6? just curious. also am I accurate at 32000 grain with 24000 as most efficient yield? 10 gpg x 150 gpd (using 75 gal/person/day) = 10500 gpw. so 24000 (mer) grains / 10500 grains/week bring the regen out to 16 days and 2400 gal between regen. is that too long between regen? should it maybe be cut down?

 

[Bannerman]

6 lbs salt to regenerate 18,000 grains capacity in 0.75 ft3 resin, is equivalent to 8 lbs to regenerate 24,000 grains capacity in 1 ft3.

8 lbs per cubic foot is the usual recommendation for a residential softener as it offers the best balance of Hardness Reduction Efficiency, Water Quality and usable capacity. As efficiency is increased, water quality (hardness leakage) and usable capacity will be decreased. Some that desire higher efficiency, are often advised to use no less than 6 lbs/ft3 due to the resulting lower water quality after repeated regeneration cycles.

Here is a chart which Ditttohead had prepared. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/resin-chart-jpg.54819/

The HR Efficiency, WQ and hardness leakage amounts for each salt setting, are indicated at the bottom of each salt quantity column.

While 75 gallons/day/pp had been a common estimate amount, with modern efficient appliances, low flush toilets and other water reduction methods that are now common, 60 gals/pp will often provide a more realistic estimate. With metered softeners that are not removing iron, there is usually no concern with overestimating water use and installing a slightly larger softener.

When the water does not contain iron, there is usually no concern with up to 30 days for a regeneration frequency.

 

[Jason Kay]

Thanks for everyone’s help. Once I get new resin in, what are the right settings for:

2 people
6-10 hardness
.75 ft^3 of resin

unit is currently set for 10lbs salt.

which dials need to be set? Thanks.

 

[Water Guy]

So, when disconnecting from the plumbing, which bracket should I loosen? A or B in the picture attached?

is the rear cover missing?

6 lbs salt to regenerate 18,000 grains capacity in 0.75 ft3 resin, is equivalent to 8 lbs to regenerate 24,000 grains capacity in 1 ft3.

8 lbs per cubic foot is the usual recommendation for a residential softener as it offers the best balance of Hardness Reduction Efficiency, Water Quality and usable capacity. As efficiency is increased, water quality (hardness leakage) and usable capacity will be decreased. Some that desire higher efficiency, are often advised to use no less than 6 lbs/ft3 due to the resulting lower water quality after repeated regeneration cycles.

Here is a chart which Ditttohead had prepared. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/resin-chart-jpg.54819/

The HR Efficiency, WQ and hardness leakage amounts for each salt setting, are indicated at the bottom of each salt quantity column.

While 75 gallons/day/pp had been a common estimate amount, with modern efficient appliances, low flush toilets and other water reduction methods that are now common, 60 gals/pp will often provide a more realistic estimate. With metered softeners that are not removing iron, there is usually no concern with overestimating water use and installing a slightly larger softener.

When the water does not contain iron, there is usually no concern with up to 30 days for a regeneration frequency.

thanks so much for your input. great forum btw

 

[Bannerman]

If I am reading the multiplier correctly as X100, the current Capacity setting is 900 gallons between regenerations (White dot @ 9 which is 900 if X100 is specified on the dial).

For 18,000 usable grains capacity / 10 gpg hardness = 1,800 gallons capacity. The raw water hardness should rightly be measured at your location to verify it is 10 gpg or less.
Estimating usage as 60 gallons/day/pp = 120 gallons per day
1,800 - 120 gallons Reserve allowance = 1,680 gallons capacity but with 25-gallon increments, 1675 will be set.
If you feel your water usage is higher such as 75 gallons/pp, then increase 120 to 150 gallons for the reserve amount.
To adjust the Capacity dial, pull the clear protruding ring toward you before turning it.

The screw on the salt cam will need to be loosened to adjust the salt amount to 6 lbs.

 

[Jason Kay]

If I am reading the multiplier correctly as X100, the current Capacity setting is 900 gallons between regenerations (White dot @ 9 which is 900 if X100 is specified on the dial).

For 18,000 usable grains capacity / 10 gpg hardness = 1,800 gallons capacity. The raw water hardness should rightly be measured at your location to verify it is 10 gpg or less.
Estimating usage as 60 gallons/day/pp = 120 gallons per day
1,800 - 120 gallons Reserve allowance = 1,680 gallons capacity but with 25-gallon increments, 1675 will be set.
If you feel your water usage is higher such as 75 gallons/pp, then increase 120 to 150 gallons for the reserve amount.
To adjust the Capacity dial, pull the clear protruding ring toward you before turning it.

The screw on the salt cam will need to be loosened to adjust the salt amount to 6 lbs.

Thank you! Yes, it's 100x. Based on your numbers, the dial should be set to 17 and not 9, correct?

 

[Bannerman]

1,680 gallons capacity but because of your dial's 25-gallon increments, 16.75 will be the setting.

 

[Jason Kay]

So I got the unit disconnected and removed most of the resin. The top of the tube which enters the tank and the top basket are rust colored. I can easily wash it off, but wondering what's causing this and if there's something I should do about it when rebuilding the tank?

I also sprained my thumb trying to unscrew the valve...but I finally got it off.