Small bathroom remodel..

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Eurob

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Hey Vegas , you did good . If you continue this way , more work -- tile -- will definitely coming your way !!!

More progress is always a good sign ....make sure you don't leave too long the masking tape on the tub . Replace it after few days , just to be on the '' easy removal '' side .:)
 

Vegas_sparky

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I'll stick to being an electrician, Roberto. :) I'll do this work for family, as long as they understand how slow I am. LOL

I'm going with black grout, per your and RSCB's advice. That will kind of go with the black/white theme I did in my daughters bedroom.

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It mattered today because I went and ordered the Rondec to finish the edges, and frame the niches. Color had to be decided. I went with 1/2" black metal bullnose, as I remember John posting once that he preferred the 1/2" with a 3/8" thick tile. It was tough to decide to go this route, over mitreing all the corners. Still don't know if I made the right choice.

The straight pieces were reasonably priced at about $16 each. The inside corners were $11+ each, and I need 9 of them(Yikes!). It'll all be in next week. The guy at the tile store usually takes good care of me.

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Here's the question. Since I don't have the Rondec/corners in hand, I assume the bullnose will get set when I install the face tiles around the niches, not the top and sides?

I better get the tile, and cuts right with this black grout. I can image anything less than perfect, and its really gonna show.
 

Eurob

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The Rondec trim will be installed when you install the inside top , bottom and sides of each niche .

If you need a true black , go with the Ardex grout .

You didn't show yet a photo of the tiles you are putting in ?!
 

Jadnashua

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Except on the floor where you can walk on it, in the Schluter workshops, they said to place the profile directly on the substrate, then spread thinset over it (IOW, don't spread your thinset, then set the profile, then set the tile). The trapezoid cutouts provide the lock to the substrate to the tile, and lock the profile in position. Buying a profile thicker than your tile means that you must be very careful setting your tile - do not push too hard, or your profile will sit proud of the tile. It's easier if you follow their instructions and get it the same or slightly lower than the tile. WIth the built-in tile spacer, the grout will bridge any gap. You can make it work with the profile thicker than the tile, but that also means you have more thinset there...it's a bear to lift the tile and redo if you press too hard - the suction holding the tile in place can be significant, and you also then risk nicking the profile when trying to lift things up to get it right...much easier to just press down, and you know it won't be taller than your tile.
 

Vegas_sparky

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Except on the floor where you can walk on it, in the Schluter workshops, they said to place the profile directly on the substrate, then spread thinset over it (IOW, don't spread your thinset, then set the profile, then set the tile). The trapezoid cutouts provide the lock to the substrate to the tile, and lock the profile in position. Buying a profile thicker than your tile means that you must be very careful setting your tile - do not push too hard, or your profile will sit proud of the tile. It's easier if you follow their instructions and get it the same or slightly lower than the tile. WIth the built-in tile spacer, the grout will bridge any gap. You can make it work with the profile thicker than the tile, but that also means you have more thinset there...it's a bear to lift the tile and redo if you press too hard - the suction holding the tile in place can be significant, and you also then risk nicking the profile when trying to lift things up to get it right...much easier to just press down, and you know it won't be taller than your tile.

I would think they need to disclaim that advice is application specific.

In my circumstance, I have a 3/8" thick large format tile. I'll be using a 3/8" x 3/8" square notch trowel, as I've taken the time to make the walls flat. With a near perfect set it'll have a finished thickness of 9/16"(3/16" mortar/3/8" tile). I'll set the 1/2" profile tight to the walls, to minimize/eliminate the gap to be caulked. Profile should be 1/16" below tile surface. I'll adjust to make it flush. A 3/8" profile would leave too large of a gap between wall/ profile for my liking, as it would have to be installed tight to the tile to cover the edge.

John mentioned this way of thinking, and even my tile store guy reaffirmed when ordering. I carefully thought it through myself before dropping $300+ on these bits of aluminum.
 

Jadnashua

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When the tile is tight to the surface of the profile, you still have the thickness of the profile through the cutout that provides the bonding and locking of the profile in place via the thinset there. Certainly, you can build it up with thinset, and if the wall or whatever isn't flat, you may need to in order to get things nice, but keep in mind that Schluter started their company with profiles as the only product, have been making them for over 30-years, the owner started out as a tile installer, and their installation instructions and guidance has decades of experience behind it along with millions of feet of the stuff installed.
 

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Vegas..... you indeed chose the proper size., although i would have put that $300 into a different tile material with a useable edge!!! its still gonna look great when youre done...

I work for a living in the tile installation trade daily. I would have made the same choice with the large format tile you are installing.

sleep easy.
 

Vegas_sparky

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Vegas..... you indeed chose the proper size., although i would have put that $300 into a different tile material with a useable edge!!! its still gonna look great when youre done...


I told my wife the same thing. That $300 could have been put to a different material, but I'm committed now. It'll look cool. Framing the profile around the niches is where the money was at, coming in at about $90 a piece for profile/corners/shipping.
 

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Picked up a couple sconces that I'll mount horizontally, instead of a typical bath fixture that would go over the vanity/mirror. The design theme is dead on with the shower trim. I'd think they were made by the same company if I didn't know any better.

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Got some interesting LED lamps to go in them. T10 style w/168 little LEDs each. Supposed to be a 60wt equivalent, consuming only 8wts, with +500 LM output each. I got a natural white color vs warm white as they are for task lighting at the sink.

IMG_20141114_140012315.jpg
 

Vegas_sparky

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Those lamps were only $20/each with a 2 year warranty. Similar incandescents are about $10/each, and the 60wt variety have a service life 2 weeks - maybe 6 months. I wouldn't say they're as bright as a 60wt incandescent, but they are brighter than a 14wt warm white CFL. For over the vanity, these should do the trick.

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Had a full weekend in the bathroom, and nothing exciting, just work. Changed out the galv nipples for brass, and installed shower arm. Lots more RG(total 3 gals over 75 sq/ft), and sealed all the penetrations. Ready for tile. Adjacent wall had an 1/8" dip, and I've been skimming that throughout the weekend. I'm watching another coat dry now. LOL I'm making all these tiled areas dead flat.

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Roughed in for new lights over vanity, finished recess' for matching medicine cabinets, and finished/sponged all drywall to where its ready for texture. I put some more RG in the backsplash area, and will probably run it all the way down the wall when I pull the crappy, old, midget vanity out. So far I've been able to get this far without pulling the sink, and toilet, so they can still be used.

IMG_20141116_115650588.jpg
 

Jadnashua

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Be aware that more is not necessarily better with RedGard...the max thickness that has been tested as safe and reliable is 125mils combined wet-film for both coats (or the total of whatever you apply) and that total must be at least 60-70 wet-film mils thick to work properly. To properly assess this, a wet film gauge is a good idea as even if you use the specified roller or trowel, or sprayer, differences in pressure or time can make a big difference in the actual coat applied. While there are tools that can test the dried film thickness without compromising it, they're lots more expensive.
 

ShowerDude

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looks like a good thorough coating of red membrane vegas......

being that ive used most all the liquid membranes on the market, extensively over the years..... i have found a 5/8 nap roll and cross grain coats with the applicable dry times and ambient temperatures in mind, that a 3 coat system works for me...

different for every backer or CBU choice of course.

red gard always looks a little thin... nice work vegas , you are on the right track.....your daughters tub/shower bathroom is gonna be awesome
 

Jadnashua

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Why did you post that? This isn't my first RedGard rodeo, its my second. I'm an expert now. LOL
Per the instructions, two coats with the desired wet film thickness should cover 35sqft/gallon. 3 gallons on your 75sqft, especially if you applied more in say the changes of plane verses everywhere, could exceed their maximum allowance. LOts of users crow about how many sqft they cover with a gallon, not realizing their film thickness isn't enough, but you can go the other way, and make it too thick.

Since this stuff gets read by lots of people, and some of them will never read the instructions, this is not only for you, but for anyone else that may read it as a precaution - too thick is as bad as too thin, and the only way you'll know if after the fact by calculating your coverage with material, or using a wet film gauge while doing it. There's an ideal min/max for each layer of the required two layers, too.
 

Vegas_sparky

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I guess that's what I get for throwing numbers out, willy nilly. GI=GO. I'm back in Vegas, so let's see what I really got.

I had very close to a full gallon left over from the last shower. I used that up first, and bought another 3.5 gal bucket. I can only estimate 1 - 1.5 gal left. So, I've applied 3 - 3.5 gal.

As far as actual sq/ft, that's where my original number was way off. The alcove area above the tub deck itself is approx 70sq/ft alone(/niche backs/back wall 5' x 6'=30' sq+ side walls 3'x6.25'x 2=37.5' sq). Then there's the ceiling(3'x5'=15'sq), the niche/window sides/tops/bottoms(4" x 30 Lin/ft=10'sq), the tub jog on right/lower drag out area on left(5' sq), and vanity back splash(6'x1.5'=9' sq). Total = 106.5 sq/ft. That's a very good estimate, and I'll take it. I'm not making the numbers fit. You can see it all in the pics.

I didn't do this in two coats. I used a 1/2" roller, and made 5 or 6 diligent passes. I gave it plenty of time to dry between, as I'm not in a hurry. If that method were described in the instructions, people wouldn't use it because they'd assume it took too long to do. I don't like the heavy coats with a thick nap roller. I found it harder to gauge the uniformity/consistency of coverage, as the material is so peaked from being pulled by the long nap. I've seen it crack when it dries (in my roller pan)if it's too thick. Regardless, I am 100% confident this will work just fine above a tub. I can't imagine sealing it all up any better, with this material.

Moving forward, I'm going to set the niche back mosaics on 1/4" Hardi, like I did last time. That saved me time setting on the weekend, as I was able fab them during the week down south. The prefabbed mosaic modules(8 of them) installed to the niche backs in less than an hour, and turned out flatter than if I set them directly to the wall.

First off, how does the combination of tile/glass/metal cut on the saw? I have my 7" MK down here. The D24000 is up north.

I have a 9", and a 13" tall niche x 46.5" wide. I have 8 pieces of linear mosaic tile, which are 13" from end/end at the tallest point. I plan on cutting 4 tiles along top/bottom to make 9" tall tile sections. That will get rid of the overhang/interlock pieces for straight edges. The scrap from those cuts can be trimmed, should fit the interlock for the remaining tiles, and fill the gaps for the 13" tall niche tiles. I should have a small hand full of material when I'm done. Does that sound like a plan? I really tried to make it all work like this when I framed.

Here's the mosaic tile.

IMG_20141116_183342785_HDR.jpg


For the big tile, they're 11 3/4" x 23 1/2".

CameraZOOM-20141116134625108.jpg


I'm setting the tub alcove with the long side vertical. For the rest of the bathroom i'm butting the wall tile horizontally to those verticals at the jog, and edge of wet wall. The horizontals will be installed up to about 46" AFF. I'll have 1/8" grout joints. With the size of the tiles I'll be gaining an 1/8" on the horizontal tiles, every two rows, in relation to the verticals, because of the addional grout joint(2 per 2 horizontal =23 3/4" vs 1 per 1 vertical=23 5/8"). I'm planning on shaving a half blade(1/16") off the bottoms of the horizontal tiles so grout joints at vertical/horizontal meeting point line up perfectly. Should I just cut an 1/8" off the bottom of one of the two horizontal rows per section? How would you guys solve this?

I'm excited to see how this turns out, myself! So far, so good.
 
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