Small bathroom remodel..

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ShowerDude

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Vegas,

Look close at your tiles...(These tiles !) you may opt for a 1/3 offset. they dont split a 50/50 so well but they are readily available nationwide and certainly come at a nice price point!!!!!.......

Good luck with this current bathroom looks like another neat project for you.

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Vegas_sparky

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I am going with a 1/3 offset. The few I've pulled out have been good face/face, face/back, back/back. They rock like Kenny G, which is very, very, very little. LOL
 

Eurob

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Vegas , I would look at the closest grout color sample which is a match for the linear -- dominant -- colored lines present on the face of the tile . :)
 

ShowerDude

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ditto...Roberto.

i set about 4 bathrooms like that with your tile of choice vegas...... the client grouted all of them behind me .

lucky me....

clean & backbutter

excited to watch you build this new one......
 

Vegas_sparky

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Finished plumbing last night, so I could put it all under pressure. Dry this morning.

Added blocking, a little more insulation, and I think I'm ready for board.

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Vegas_sparky

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Also, FWIW, I used 3" GripRite deck acrews this time. Deckmates last time. The GR drive much easier, and self countersink very easily, with much less splitting on kiln dried lumber.
 

Vegas_sparky

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Board is up. Unless there's any objections from you pros, I'm gonna tape and mud the seams.

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And yes, I know the light isn't centered. #@+$%& bottom chord of the truss split the tub right down the middle. I added 2 cans, and an exhust fan in that same line. I wasn't gonna chop up the truss like that. No thanks. Lights look fine. LOL
 

Eurob

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Hey Vegas ,

Lots of details you got there ...... did you figure out the niches counting full tiles ?

What is happening with the insulation in the recessed part ?

I won't give you a hard time on the -- what can?:D --


You do a good job -- I like it -- , thanks to us LOL
 
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Vegas_sparky

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Hey Vegas ,

Lots of details you got there ...... did you figure out the niches counting full tiles ?

I hope so. I gave myself a little room to tune it in, I think.

What is happening with the insulation in the recessed part ?

This is a DIY forum, so look, I put foam back there. And I did it myself! LOL

I won't give you a hard time on the -- what can?:D --

Huh? ;)

You do a good job -- I like it -- , thanks to us LOL

Thanks man. :) This is my EuroWhipple project. :D
 

Eurob

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You are so funny -- EuroWhipple -- , maybe this should be the name of the new hardcore test lol .

There is something hanging from the corners -- talking about gonging -- ....how do you treat those penetration points ..... more po:Dokey to apply :D

Good job , Vegas . :)
 

Eurob

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Vegas,

This can make your life easier for working on the tub surroundings -- avoiding chipping and safer installation -- .

Protection

Protection on tubs.jpg
Protection on tubs 1.jpg
 

Vegas_sparky

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I'm glad Hardi isn't at the bottom of the list. I keep using it because I know what to expect from it. That's how us part timers do it. :confused:

Got the tub caulked in. The skinny, popped out tub leg will be fun to tile, but I knew that was coming. I want to keep the tile surround really tight to the tub.

Notice the existing drywall on the right. I pull the top layers of paper off so my tape sits flush(or better yet, below) the existing paper. I can't stand patches that shine, so I invented this technique. LOL

I'll definitely get more protection for the tub before I set tile. It would suck to have one hit the deck every time a tile falls off the wall. LMAO

IMG_20141102_090240858.jpg
 
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Eurob

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I like what I see there Vegas .

I always prefer to build up a little more with the mortar -- if necessary -- instead of pulling the protective paper layer off the drywall .


If you keep the protective layers of masking tape recessed -- away from the under the finished tiled area on the tub -- you can remove or add the masking tape needed for other steps during the tile work .
 

Jadnashua

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There are two different classes of boards commonly called CBU: those that contain only inert materials, and those that contain some organic material. They each require slightly different installation techniques as called out in the TCNA guidelines. HardieBacker is classified as a fiber-cement board since it can contain up to something less than 15% cellulose (organic) per their data sheet. The fibers help to make it stronger, but also allow it to wick more water.

As a result, at least when building a shower, the TCNA requires a fiber-cement board to be held back from touching changes of plane or from being buried in a mudbed. On a traditional shower, this can be problematic, since the mudbed is typically used to lock the bottom of the cbu tight against the wall. And, since you can't screw it in less that 3" above the top of the curb, that can mean the bottom 6" or so of the board is just floating there. Not an issue on a tub surround, but it should not be run low enough to touch the horizontal tub deck and should be caulked per their instructions.

IOW, there's more to it - all CBU boards are not created equal.
 

Vegas_sparky

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This weekend I finished taping/mudding the CBU, and all the drywall. I had quite a few patches to take care of.

First couple of coats of RG went on in the shower. At the window I siliconed the Hardi to the window frame. Then lapped the RG up over it. Hopefully that seals that deal.

IMG_20141109_102457287.jpg


Lapped the RG down to the tub at the bottom also. Next weekend, I'll add more, and clean it up.

IMG_20141109_113231356_HDR.jpg


Niches got RG and mesh in the back wall seams just cause.

IMG_20141109_114847479.jpg


That's it for now. Still looking good?

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