Sealing Toilet to Floor help

[iceflow]

Folks,
I've, hopefully, repaired toilet PVC flange with oneof the metal inserts.

My DIY book shows covering toilet base with bead of plumbers putty. I've done that and toilet does not rock and seems firm and is level. Should I scrape out enough putty and finish job with silicone sealeant?

Also......in case metal insert fix fails...............isn't there a complete flange insert assembley with an expanding rubber collar that goes inside the current flange? The original flange has been glued to the sewer pipe, so that must be a devil of a job to remove.

Thanks

 

[Terry]

Pleases pull the bowl up now and get rid of the plumbers putty under the bowl.

Reset the bowl, and this time use plastic door shims, only if needed.
If you shim, do it from the back of the bowl, pinning the front to the bowl down to the floor.
If you use Silicone, you will have nearly an impossible time pulling the bowl without ruining your floor.
You can use a clear polyseamseal for that. It sticks the bowl down, and yet you can also remove the bowl later.

I would never use plumbers putty under a bowl like that.
Some plumbers us putty in place of a wax seal, but not under the bowl to set it. Wrong place for it.

There are people that do, and then there are people that write books.
This is one of those times when the writer is just making stuff up.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Gary Swart]

The purpose of the caulk around the base of the toilet is not to "seal it to the floor", it is to prevent spilled water on the floor from getting under the toilet. My preference is a white caulk such as Dap, or GE. Some inspectors want the back of the toilet to remain uncaulked, others prefer it to be caulked. The seal you need to worry about is the horn where it fits into the flange. This is done with a wax ring or a waxless product designed for that purpose. Do not use a wax ring that has a plastic horn embedded in it, just a plain ring. The toilet must be in total contact with the floor or the seal will break. The thing you should do first is set the toilet in place without the wax ring and see if there is any rocking. If there is, then use the door shims as Terry described to level the toilet. Then proceed with the installation. If the toilet is rock-solid when you set it in place, then no shims are needed. I use an extra nut on the flange bolts to hold them in position while the toilet is set into the wax. Do not use the flange bolts to squeeze the toilet into the wax, rather use you body weight. The flange bolts are mostly just to hold the toilet in place once it is set. Tighten them, but do not overdo it.

 

[worsnup]

stay way from the rubber coller flange they suck there are holes in your repair flange to bolt it to the floor just neeed a drill 1/4" masonary bit and i like mushroom head lead ancors
ployseamseal dreis harder and sticks the best