Replace or Modify Iron Toilet Flange?

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bosscogg

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Hi, Guys. Bath remodel is coming along nicely, due in large part to the great advice I've received here. I've hit another wall, so hoping someone can again point to the best solution.

I've removed the old vinyl flooring and 3/8" underlayment, and am currently repairing the subfloor (1x6 planking) in preparation for new 1/2" ply underlayment, Ditra, and tile. I'm estimating the new floor will be raised by ~1/2" when done, which will mean addressing the current toilet flange. It is in decent structural shape as far as I can tell, but there is considerable corrosion on the elbow it's attached to. The flange doesn't appear to be the leaded-in type I've read about in my research, but rather a two piece compression deal. Ideally (I'm guessing), I'd just remove the current flange and replace with a new PVC one. Unfortunately the flange and elbow are now essentially one solid piece, so there's little hope of removing it without compromising the elbow.

So, simply put, how best can I raise the flange to the new finished floor height?

The options I'm considering so far:

- Install the underlayment around the current flange, and add an appropriate spacer and new flange once the new floor is installed. Clearly the easiest route, but not sure I'd ever feel completely comfortable knowing the condition of the old plumbing I'd built on top of.

-Find a suitable place to cut the iron (see pic), and replace with a fernco coupler and ABS. This is a much more difficult, but possible, proposition, due both to access issues and a substantial expansion of the scope of the project.

-Move ;-)

Have I missed something obvious? Certainly wouldn't be the first time.
I've attached a few pics to better illustrate the situation. Thanks as always for any advice you might provide.


Current flange and elbow:
IMG_3743.jpg

Elbow to wye junction. Down continues to drain, up is the vent:
IMG_3744.jpg

Coupling below the wye. This seems the best place to switch to ABS:
IMG_3745.jpg

Below the coupling, continuing to main drain:
IMG_3746.jpg

Galvanized vent line w/ massive coupling to work around:
IMG_3747.jpg
 

Cacher_Chick

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In the second photo, it looks like there might be chunk broken off the c.i. hub? Maybe just a shadow?

The vertical section of piping is likely fine. I would look at pulling the closet bend out of the hub and putting in an ABS or PVC one using a properly sized donut, and then a new flange set on the finished floor.
 
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bosscogg

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In the second photo, it looks like there might be chunk broken off the c.i. hub? Maybe just a shadow?

The vertical section of piping is likely fine. I would look at pulling the closet bend out of the hub and putting in an ABS or PVC one using a properly sized donut, and then a new flange set on the finished floor.

Thanks for the reply, cacher_chick. Just checked, and the hub is intact. However, that dark spot is some sort of tarry substance that seems to be oozing from the lead joint. Oakum, maybe? If so, that can't be good, and makes your recommendation to remove the closet bend more appealing and pressing.

I've read about a couple different methods of breaking a leaded seal joint. One involves melting the lead out, the other drilling and digging it out. Again, access will be the toughest obstacle. Do you have or know a preferred method?
 

Terry

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I've read about a couple different methods of breaking a leaded seal joint. One involves melting the lead out, the other drilling and digging it out. Again, access will be the toughest obstacle. Do you have or know a preferred method?

I would not use a torch on the lead unless you want a new house.

Drilling and prying is the way. You may lose a few 1/4" drill bits in the process. And any old flat blade screwdriver will do for the prying part.

Though I don't see a problem with the cast parts in the pictures. Did it ever even leak? It looks pretty solid.
It may make more sense to cut the cast iron on the horizontal and install new pipe from there.
You can take more wood out for access.
 

bosscogg

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I would not use a torch on the lead unless you want a new house.

I can see the text to the wife now: "You know that new bathroom you wanted? Well, you're getting one...with a new house attached."

So, drilling it will be.

Though I don't see a problem with the cast parts in the pictures. Did it ever even leak? It looks pretty solid.
It may make more sense to cut the cast iron on the horizontal and install new pipe from there.
You can take more wood out for access.

Nope, no leaks. And you're exactly right--the run is quite solid. Is that tarry seep anything to be concerned about? Because in looking at it again, I can easily remove the cross brace the bend is strapped to to gain much better access. If it is something I should be concerned with and that joint is compromised, would you recommend the vertical section in the pic above to transition to ABS?

Thanks again for the help, much appreciated.
 
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