I have a semi-deep well, 86 feet, with an above ground jet pump, 2 wire,. I keep having to replace the pressure switch because the plastic around the contacts and the contacts keep getting too hot and melting ans warping out of shape so that they can't make contact. I have the well pump and pressure switch both grounded with an eight foot ground rod. If the pump runs for more than an hour straight the pressure switch will melt down. Can anyone tell me why this happens? I have replaced around 15 pressure switches over the past 10 years. There is no breaker on the well, it is wired straight from the outside electrical box to the well house with a standard outlet box that I plug a power cord to the well pump into. Please help, I burned a new one up in 3 hours today topping off pool.....Thanks for any suggestions...
Pressure switch keeps melting down
- Thread starter Frye01
- Start date
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TVL
Member
The fact that you've changed so many pressure switches is a sure sign something isn't right. I'm still using the same pressure switch that was originally installed on my well in 1978.
Please take a look at the following link and try to determine the cause of you contacts overheating and make the correction quickly. I'm surprised you haven't experienced a fire with this many faults!
http://ecmweb.com/ops_maintenance/electrical-overheating-basics-20090601/
Please take a look at the following link and try to determine the cause of you contacts overheating and make the correction quickly. I'm surprised you haven't experienced a fire with this many faults!
http://ecmweb.com/ops_maintenance/electrical-overheating-basics-20090601/
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Cacher_Chick
Test, Don't Guess!
Given that your well pump has no circuit protection device, it is very possible that the pump motor has a fault causing more current to flow than the wire or contacts are rated for.
Your installation does not meet code and is a fire hazard. The pump motor should be tested for excessive draw and the circuit wired properly to a breaker panel.
Your installation does not meet code and is a fire hazard. The pump motor should be tested for excessive draw and the circuit wired properly to a breaker panel.
Ballvalve
General Engineering Contractor
What is the pump horse power? Running on 120 volts? Your pump might be fine, [been happening for 10 years, so likely not a fault in motor] but you keep buying low end switches rated for 1/2 or 3/4 hp or even 1 hp at 220 volts. At 120 volts, all the power runs through only one of the two contacts on the pressure switch. After testing motor amp draw, add a relay to switch the load or get a heavy duty pressure switch, or change to 240v feeed.
NHmaster3015
Master Plumber
Undersized wiring can cause the problem also. You should match the wire size to the amp draw of the motor
Pressure switches usually melt from excessive cycling. Filling a pool with a hose makes the pump cycle on and off a lot. Could be too much amperage, bad connection, small wires, but i will bet it is the cycling. Can't believe your pump survived that many pressure switches.
3/4 horse-jet pump-120volts-no relay or breaker. Actually the feed for the pump house somehow doesn't even go through the breaker box in the house. I can cut off the main power feed to the house and the line to the pump house still has power. Your advice seems right on as it is the same contact on the same side that burns up all the time. Could you elaborate on the relay, and advise as to where I could get one as well as the heavy duty pressure switch. I get the ones now at Lowe's. I moved to this spot in a hurry and the well when I got here was a 2' pvc pipe sticking out off the ground covered by duct tape. I put the venturi valve and all the pipe in and set the pump myself not knowing a damn thing about what I was doing, I'm surprised it works at all....lol...thanks for the replies..
Ballvalve
General Engineering Contractor
You have some industrial strength issues! I appears that the prior owner may have "hot wired" that well and bypassed the meter to save a bunch of money. If you call an electrician, better be a good friend. And do not touch the incoming wires because without a breaker you will be barbequed.
You need to at least install a breaker box at the wire inlet to the well area. Then get your buddy with an ammeter to test the amp draw of the running pump with a clamp on ammeter. Then search pressure switches on the internet and find one with a rating for your amp draw and HP, Graingers supply is a good start, as they give specs on each switch they carry.
You also need to test voltage incoming, and voltage while running.
Compare the tested amp draw on the motor to the "FLA" rating at 120 volts on the nameplate.
This is not a DIY deal unless you want to continue the risk and get a super duty presssure switch, or add a simplex pump relay box, but again you need a pro.
I shouldnt tell you this, but since its such a mess anyway, you can "split the hot lead" and wire it onto BOTH pressure switch contacts to divide the amp flow carried by each contact. This leaves you with an unswitched neutral or ground [if there is any other than your ground bar!] but thats pretty typical.
[If the neutral or ground is now on the contact that does NOT melt, just remove it and wire them together]
But first please find Billy Bob that worked as an electrician and has no love for your local utility company to take look.
You need to at least install a breaker box at the wire inlet to the well area. Then get your buddy with an ammeter to test the amp draw of the running pump with a clamp on ammeter. Then search pressure switches on the internet and find one with a rating for your amp draw and HP, Graingers supply is a good start, as they give specs on each switch they carry.
You also need to test voltage incoming, and voltage while running.
Compare the tested amp draw on the motor to the "FLA" rating at 120 volts on the nameplate.
This is not a DIY deal unless you want to continue the risk and get a super duty presssure switch, or add a simplex pump relay box, but again you need a pro.
I shouldnt tell you this, but since its such a mess anyway, you can "split the hot lead" and wire it onto BOTH pressure switch contacts to divide the amp flow carried by each contact. This leaves you with an unswitched neutral or ground [if there is any other than your ground bar!] but thats pretty typical.
[If the neutral or ground is now on the contact that does NOT melt, just remove it and wire them together]
But first please find Billy Bob that worked as an electrician and has no love for your local utility company to take look.
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