Please comment: Tiling flange irregularities--Big problems ahead

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Paul Reece

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As I prepare to install the new jetted tub I just bought from Kohler, I harken back to the disaster created by the tiling flange in the post I saw here
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/cover-tub-flange.61556/#post-455922

Here are photos of the tiling flanges on the alcove-installation tub Kohler shipped to me.
I don't see how I can expect anything but broblems given the irregular, tapered thickness at the recurved tops of these flanges.
Given this variation in thickness/width of the recurve, the tiling flange along the back side (long side) of the tub is 5/8" WIDER than at the narrowest point. God only knows how a tile is supposed to overhang that extra thickness.
Dare I try to take a sander or a grinder to this acrylic surface? And WHY should I have to?
I had to postpone this bathroom reno once, when it took EIGHT WEEKS to get delivery of this tub. I'd hate to have to do it again.
 

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FullySprinklered

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The tile needs to lap over the lip of the tub, whatever it takes. Picture a tile board on the studs coming down flush with the lip and the tile extending down past that joint. If a little grinder work would let that happen, go for it.
 

Jadnashua

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Sounds like typical thinking at Kohler to me. That doesn't make it good or bad, but must be logical to someone.
 

Terry

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How long is the tub?
I ask this because I tried to install a tub that a homeowener had bought online, and the tub was 1/2" oversized. I had to shave the studs in the room to get the tub installed, and the the walls needed to be repaired for drywall afterwards.
I had never seen that before. If my plumbing supply had sold it to me, I would have returned it.
 

Paul Reece

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How long is the tub?
I ask this because I tried to install a tub that a homeowener had bought online, and the tub was 1/2" oversized. I had to shave the studs in the room to get the tub installed, and the the walls needed to be repaired for drywall afterwards.
I had never seen that before. If my plumbing supply had sold it to me, I would have returned it.

It's a 66 x 32 inch tub... and if the tiling flange didn't have the lip on top, then it would be 66 inches long.
As it sits, the length is 66 1/2, and the width varies from 32 1/4 to 32 5/8.
I'm not about to try to grind that excess material off the tiling flange. One slip of the grinder and the tub is ruined, Kohler voids my warranty for trying to modify the product, and I'm out 2200 bucks..
The company had a local service company call me about the problem. When I described it to them, they just laughed and commented crudely on Kohler quality control. They called Kohler back and told them they wouldn't do the job, and it should be given to someone else. I haven't heard from "someone else."
 

Terry

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I wonder if somebody is selling stuff that has been rejected.
There is no way you can sell a plumber a 66 inch tub that comes out of the box at 66.5"
No way.

When I had a tub like that a few months ago, (owner supplied) we had to pull off the job and let the homeowener think about it.
At first, he thought we could move an oversized tub into place, even though it was larger than the room. Kinda doesn't work that way.
The tub is always smaller than the room between the studs.
 

DIYitright

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There is hope. I am installing an acrylic Kohler tub like that. The tub is fortunately exactly 30 x 60 inches over the flanges, not much variation at all. Their literature does say the measurements are "nominal" which means they can mess with it a little. But 32 1/4 to 32 5/8 is a big difference. I would contact Kohler about the large variation making their unit unsuitable for installation and either they can eat it or allow you to grind the flange .

Wait- I looked at the pictures again - if the max flange depth is 5/8 inches, shim the tub parallel with the studs and you are good to go. Of course add blocking under the deck and blocking between the studs.

Anyway, this is how I did it:

The previous cast iron tub was exactly 29x60, and they built the walls snugly around it. The space was an interference fit for the new tub, I had to make a little room somehow. I notched the studs to slide in the new tub. I could have ground down the flanges a shade, but that's what I did

The Kohler installation literature says fur out the studs 1/4 inch. No way. It has 3/8" flanges at either end and a 5/8" flange at the back. I furred out the studs so the cementatious backer board (CBU) will lap over the flanges exactly and down to within 1/8 of the deck. The backer board will also continue down over the skirt, giving a 1/2" coverage to squidge in silicone caulk

To accommodate the 3/8 flange at one end, I notched the studs 3/8". (WHAT!?) Yes. I looked up the code and found the permitted depth of notches. The CBU will be flush with the drywall. Yay!

The small length of CBU hanging in space down the flange 1 1/4" at the front is strong enough. If you want, put some shims between the studs and the CBU at the front. I had to add 3/8 shim stock down the skirt to make the CBU absolutely flat.

It involved ripping about 120 ft of 2-by lumber into shims of the proper thickness. My son helped catch the lengths at the exit of the table saw.

-Doug
 
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Paul Reece

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There is hope. I am installing an acrylic Kohler tub like that. The tub is fortunately exactly 30 x 60 inches over the flanges, not much variation at all. Their literature does say the measurements are "nominal" which means they can mess with it a little. But 32 1/4 to 32 5/8 is a big difference. I would contact Kohler about the large variation making their unit unsuitable for installation and either they can eat it or allow you to grind the flange .

Wait- I looked at the pictures again - if the max flange depth is 5/8 inches, shim the tub parallel with the studs and you are good to go. Of course add blocking under the deck and blocking between the studs.

Anyway, this is how I did it:

The previous cast iron tub was exactly 29x60, and they built the walls snugly around it. The space was an interference fit for the new tub, I had to make a little room somehow. I notched the studs to slide in the new tub. I could have ground down the flanges a shade, but that's what I did

The Kohler installation literature says fur out the studs 1/4 inch. No way. It has 3/8" flanges at either end and a 5/8" flange at the back. I furred out the studs so the cementatious backer board (CBU) will lap over the flanges exactly and down to within 1/8 of the deck. The backer board will also continue down over the skirt, giving a 1/2" coverage to squidge in silicone caulk

To accommodate the 3/8 flange at one end, I notched the studs 3/8". (WHAT!?) Yes. I looked up the code and found the permitted depth of notches. The CBU will be flush with the drywall. Yay!

The small length of CBU hanging in space down the flange 1 1/4" at the front is strong enough. If you want, put some shims between the studs and the CBU at the front. I had to add 3/8 shim stock down the skirt to make the CBU absolutely flat.

It involved ripping about 120 ft of 2-by lumber into shims of the proper thickness. My son helped catch the lengths at the exit of the table saw.

-Doug

You're a more tolerant and forgiving guy than I am, Doug. My tub is going back to Kohler for replacement under the company warranty. The second of two repairmen assigned to my problem by Kohler came out to look at it (the first one turned down the job after we talked about it on the phone), and he (the second guy) found that the tub had been trimmed and finished (after coming out of the mold) to meet size specifications overall, but INCLUDING the ridiculous oversized tiling flanges. In other words it was cut out-of-square. He pointed out that if he ground down the flanges to facilitate installation, the resulting tub--when viewed from above--would be a parallelogram AND well outside nominal size specs. In addition, an integral piece of support for the apron edge was missing, and the apron itself was out of square. He called Kohler and told the tub was beyond repair.
It took me eight weeks to get the first shipment, I'm betting Kohler won't improve on that performance.
 
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