Old home with undersized septic tank

Users who are viewing this thread

Blair4547

New Member
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Asheville
My wife and I own an older home built in the early 60's. Since we bought the place we've been using it as a vacation home. Maybe a total of 10-20 days per year. I'm in the process of getting it ready for full time occupancy following retirement. The home has a very small septic tank. I'm estimating it at 400-450 gallons. The drain field consists of a single line that is approximately 100 feet long.

My concern is that the system will fail and if Murphy has anything to do with it the failure will occur as soon as we are on a fixed income. I've been in the house for about the equivalent of 6 months with no problems. The previous owner was a single woman. As a Neanderthal of a guy I tend to eat a lot of meat. Also my hobby is making sausage. I'm concerned about the grease from cooking and cleaning (in a dishwasher) will overload the system. I have the requisite grease jar and remove as much as I can but I'm concerned about the residue.

When it comes time the entire system will need to be replaced since the tank is so small and won't meet current code. Also in a very inconvenient place so even the drain will need to be relocated.

No one has ever accused me of under building or under complicating anything. So here is where I need the guidance. One of my projects is to redo the kitchen. As part of that project I will be replacing the floor. Since we have a crawl space it would be very convenient to open the floor and install what would become a new main drain. Also at the same time I'd install necessary drain for a gray water system for the washing machine. Since everything works now I wouldn't make the change over until necessary. This would all be installed before I finish encapsulating the crawl space.

While it may be a lot of work now it would mostly be sweat equity. It would avoid tearing up the new floor in the dining room/kitchen and having to reseal the encapsulated crawl space.

My real question is this: Am I following my usual pattern of over complicating things or am I following my usual pattern of planning for the future?

Thanks in advance.

P.S. My ego says that I have to put in the following disclaimer. When I was writing code in the middle and late 90's none of my work had to be corrected for Y2K. In addition most of the electronic systems that I have specified the equipment for or designed have outlasted the next generation of gear.
 

Smooky

In the Trades
Messages
2,299
Reaction score
152
Points
63
Location
North Carolina
I guess the home is in Asheville and not in Florida. Septic systems are sized according to how many bedrooms. Bedrooms are usually figured to have two people per bedroom at 60 gallons per person. The minimum design flow for a home is 240 gallons. A three bedroom home is designed to have a flow of 360 gpd. Minimum tank size is 900 gallons but most people go with a 1000 gallon tank for a three bedroom house. The minimum length of a standard drainfield for a three bedroom house built on a sand dune is around 100 feet. Soil in the mountains has a much lower acceptance rate so the drainfield will be much longer such as 360 feet or more . Also the minimum size may not be large enough depending on your use. …Most people do not enlarge their septic system unless they have to do so. If you do an addition or were building something where your existing system is located would be reasons you might have too or if the system was failing.

http://www.deh.enr.state.nc.us/oswp/docs/rules/RulesCompleteEff10012011.pdf

You may be able to extend the life of the system by pumping the tank often and do not install a garbage grinder. Adding a zabel filter to the outlet of the tank will also help.

http://www.zabelzone.com/

The Buncombe County Department of Health's division of environmental health is responsible for septic permitting in the County.
(828) 250-5016 or visit their office located at 30 Valley Street, Asheville, NC 28801

http://www.buncombecounty.org/governing/depts/health/EnvironmentalHealth.aspx
 

Leejosepho

DIY scratch-pad engineer
Messages
2,483
Reaction score
0
Points
36
Location
200 miles south of Little Rock
Website
www.nonameyet.org
...the tank is so small and won't meet current code. Also in a very inconvenient place so even the drain will need to be relocated.

...Since everything works now I wouldn't make the change over until necessary. This would all be installed before I finish encapsulating the crawl space.

...

My real question is this: Am I following my usual pattern of over complicating things or am I following my usual pattern of planning for the future?
An upgrade would seem to me to be far less stressful today than later, and I would definitely do one. You might add another small tank in series with the existing tank, or just replace it altogether. And if you have space for a second drain field, adding an A/B valve would let your drain fields take turns resting for a year to rejuvenate a bit. As to the matter of a filter for helping to keep solids out of your drain field/s, here is as simple and as serviceable (washable) as they get: http://www.gag-simtech.com/index_files/Page566.htm
 
Last edited:
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks