My clicking follie.........

[csnort]

When this began I started having pressure problems and found that my pressure switch was clicking on and off several times whenever the pressure began to drop. I thought: "bladder tank problem", so I replaced it. No change. Due to drought conditions I feared for my water level and pulled the pump ( 40 feet of galvanized pipe and a 1/2 hp sub-pump ). I checked the water level and had water 20' above the pump level and 130' below. Pump inlet screens were about 75 % covered with scalely rust (did I mention a high iron and silt content?). So I replaced the pump. Put it all back together with a new pressure switch (plastic pipe this time) and still no change. I checked the nipple and piping on the PS and guage and found them to be nearly clogged. Replaced them too. I increased the cut in and cut out pressures to 50/70 from 40/60 and now I get 3 clicks (on / off / on) every time I get down to cut in. The only thing in the line I haven't changed is the check-valve between the well head and the pressure switch ( it looks to be funtioning in good shape visually). Could it be? Any other suggestions?

Also I wonder: 1) The original well driller installed a PVC screen around the submersible pump. Is this necessary? I have had a tough time finding this around here. 2) Is it ok to lower the pump below the slotted well casing (deeper then 40' in my 150' well)?

Thank you all........I have learned a great deal from this forum.

Cranston

 

[csnort]

Follies.........of course!

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Speedbump]

The switch has to be near the tank, within a few feet or so. The check valve between the pump and tank should not be there. The screen on the pump should have been there when you bought it. They all come with some sort of screen when new. I wouldn't remove it.

Are you saying your screen is at 50 feet but your well is 150 feet deep??? If so, you could have cooling problem by putting the pump below the screen.

bob...

 

[Raucina]

It would seem the pump should be set around 130 feet with a flow sleeve to bring the water in at the motor. Why drill to 150 feet and abandon 100 feet of water?

 

[csnort]

my well....

Thanks for the prompt responses........

When I had my well drilled many people in my area were getting dry holes at 400 and 500 feet. I couldn't afford to take this kind of chance and considered a cheaper, bored well. My driller (someone of good reputation) suggested what he called a drilled "slotted well". He guaranteed at least 20 gpm for a flat rate. Ok, he drilled where I wanted the well and hit 60 gpm at 40'. He drilled on down to 150' ( I supposed for storage capacity) and installed 40' of steel casing ( with slots cut into the bottom 10' ). He put a PVC continuous slot well screen around the submersible pump and lowered it with the galvanized pipe to this slotted place at the bottom of the casing. He did install a check valve at both the pump and right after the well head (before the PS ) .

Being worried that my well may not recharge as quickly as it once did, I thought it might be prudent to lower the pump; however, I wasn't sure it would be ok to lower it below the casing.

I'll try removing the second check-valve. My tank Ts into my line 2' downline of the switch but the line from the tank is almost 3'.

Cranston..

 

[Rancher]

He did install a check valve at both the pump and right after the well head (before the PS ) .

So... you really have 3 check valves, one in the pump, one at the pump, and one above ground...

Rancher

 

[Speedbump]

I have never heard of a well drilled in this fashion before. If he got 60 gpm at 40 feet, why did he go to 150? Why the slotted screen around the pump? That's a new one.

I think if you move the switch to the tank, the clicking will stop.

bob...

 

[csnort]

2 check valves: one just above the pump and one above ground just before the PS. If there is one inside the pump I don't know about it.

 

[Rancher]

A normal submersible pump has a check valve built in.

Rancher

 

[Speedbump]

There are a few with external check valves, like the Betta Flo I sell, it has a male female check valve screwed into the top of the pump. That is the only one needed though. I would get rid of the one at the top of the well.

bob...