My $700 WPRV Failure (?)

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JNDCJ

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My plumber installed a water pressure regulating valve (Cash Acme EB-45) three years ago to bring my pressure down from 90 to 55. $389.

Last year it started knocking lightly randomly with no apparent association with water use in the house. The plumber came back and inspected the valve and found debris, cleaned and lubricated it and re-installed the valve. $99.

The knocking has begun again in the summer of 2014, always a soft thump-thump-thump lasting from a few seconds to over a minute. Usually it ends spontaneously. Sometimes it ends when I turn on a tap. Once it ended only when I shut off the upstream supply valve and turned it back on (it thumped a few times and stopped) . It sometimes happens after the toilet is flushed nearest the valve. Sometimes it happens when no water has been used for over an hour. I only hear it in the evening because that's when I'm in the living room over the WPRV which is in the crawl space below.

At the most recent visit the plumber disassembled and inspected the valve and found no visible signs of defect or deterioration; installed a check-valve upstream to prevent water from being pulled back into the line. (I am the last house on a line in a private neighborhood well-water system managed by Aqua). He also installed wrap-around insulation around the WPRV and the check-valve to prevent contact with adjacent floor joists. We inspected all water outlets and facilities and found no leaking or dripping. $207.

The thumping continues, still randomly without any observed association with water use.

When I checked the pressure at my hose bib the morning after the last visit the pressure was 78. I set it to 55. I connected my pressure meter to the hose bib and left it on overnight. It was 80 this morning at 05:00 (before, I presume, heavy use on my line). Later at 08:00 I adjusted the pressure to 45, Now at 11:00 it is back up to 80. The pressure in the hot water heater tank expansion tank is 40.

I have asked Aqua to come out and explain to me whether the pressure in my line fluctuates and how much, and offer any other guidance that might be helpful, understanding that the WPRV is on my side so it's my problem. I hope to hear from them soon.

Another representative of the plumber's company now says that the valve needs to be replaced because the water in my private system is known to be acidic and that causes valve failure. Estimate: $300-$400.

Are these signs of failure of the WPRV?

Would "acidic water" cause it and how since the plumber saw nothing wrong when he opened it?

Should this valve keep pressure at a set level, or fluctuate within a range?

Should my system water pressure fluctuate 20 or 30 psi?

When during the day should the pressure be adjusted?

I've watched so many YouTube videos I'm cross-eyed trying to figure out what's going on.

I didn't have this problem for 25 years and now it is persistent. Can anyone offer me some advice about what is happening and what my solutions might be?

Thank you!
 

Reach4

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The pre-charge air pressure of the pressure tank would best be 45 PSI if you set your PRV to 45. I think you do not want a valve between the PRV and the pressure tank. 4o is pretty good too.

It looks to me as if the valve itself is under $100, so buying one to swap out seems good. It looks like it could be an easy swap. It seems to me is either a fix or a troubleshooting technique -- both valuable. But I don't speak from experience.

While thinking about it, based on your debris comment, I wonder if you could put a sediment filter before the PRV. It would have to be rated for the highest pressure that could be anticipated. I have not tried to look up such filters. 100 PSI would be the spec for a 10 inch Big Blue filter housing. If you decided to go that route, I am sure you could find a different housing. That debris might have been a one-time thing. If you say you might want to do that, somebody will probably offer a good suggestion. What is the max PSI that you think you might face?
 

hj

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If the pressure keeps going up to 80psi then that is the utility's pressure and your regulator has failed. It has nothing to do with the water heater expansion tank, or its pressure. Anyone who "works" on a PRV, instead of replacing it, is wasting your money and their time.
 

JNDCJ

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If the pressure keeps going up to 80psi then that is the utility's pressure and your regulator has failed. It has nothing to do with the water heater expansion tank, or its pressure. Anyone who "works" on a PRV, instead of replacing it, is wasting your money and their time.
This makes sense because watching it all day now I see it drift back up over time. I can't understand why it failed so soon. If I get another kind of regulator can I have any confidence that it won't fail again, another type or brand? Spending an average of $225 a year to keep a regulator working doesn't seem like it should be necessary. Is there a type that is more reliable (full cartridge, etc.?)
 

JNDCJ

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If the pressure keeps going up to 80psi then that is the utility's pressure and your regulator has failed. It has nothing to do with the water heater expansion tank, or its pressure. Anyone who "works" on a PRV, instead of replacing it, is wasting your money and their time.[/QUOT
The pre-charge air pressure of the pressure tank would best be 45 PSI if you set your PRV to 45. I think you do not want a valve between the PRV and the pressure tank. 4o is pretty good too.

It looks to me as if the valve itself is under $100, so buying one to swap out seems good. It looks like it could be an easy swap. It seems to me is either a fix or a troubleshooting technique -- both valuable. But I don't speak from experience.

While thinking about it, based on your debris comment, I wonder if you could put a sediment filter before the PRV. It would have to be rated for the highest pressure that could be anticipated. I have not tried to look up such filters. 100 PSI would be the spec for a 10 inch Big Blue filter housing. If you decided to go that route, I am sure you could find a different housing. That debris might have been a one-time thing. If you say you might want to do that, somebody will probably offer a good suggestion. What is the max PSI that you think you might face?
Since no debirs was found this inspection I'm not included to add filters. I am unfortunately comging to the conclusion that the regulator has just failed although I can't understand why after only three years.
 
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