Leaking 1/4T shut off

[Fritz57]

just discovered a leaking 1/4T shutoff on a sink. 10yo BrassCraft chrome.
can't those be repacked or something or to I have to sweat anew?
I assume its sweat, but it has a dress escutcheon behind it.

 

[MKS]

The out of alignment brass nut on top of the chrome nut would be the first thing I would look into.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[CountryBumkin]

There should not be any Teflon tape used. That connection with the Teflon tape is a "compression" fitting. The outside threads do not aid in sealing the connection.

 

[Reach4]

The out of alignment brass nut on top of the chrome nut would be the first thing I would look into.

I think the photo should show all of that brass-colored part and part of pipe above. I see that is much different than for the cold line farther back in the photo. Did that brass fall from above? Can you just lift the brass piece?

 

[Fritz57]

There should not be any Teflon tape used. That connection with the Teflon tape is a "compression" fitting. The outside threads do not aid in sealing the connection.

OK, good to know.
Should either end of the supply tube be teflon or the feed from the valve to the center spout?

 

[Fritz57]

I think the photo should show all of that brass-colored part and part of pipe above. I see that is much different than for the cold line farther back in the photo. Did that brass fall from above? Can you just lift the brass piece?

the brass nut is from the supply line at the valve. I disconnected to grease the cartridge.

 

[FullySprinklered]

The 3/8 compression nut should be showing maybe one thread when it's tight. The rubber in the female side seals it, not at the threads at all.

 

[MKS]

I saw the tape it didn't register. Thanks for the reminder guys.

 

[Gary Swart]

Regarding replacement, if needed. Most of these valves use compression fittings, and are not sweat. This is because compression fitting are easier when working with limited space such as you have here with the wall. When using compression fitting, a drop or two of light oil is all you should use on the threads, and that isn't really required.

 

[Reach4]

If that is compression, how did somebody put that non-split escutcheon on? Looking at page 10 of http://www.brasscraft.com/pdf/0300_water_supplies_catalog.pdf I suspect this is FIP, which would mean the valve would unscrew.

 

[Fritz57]

the supply risers are older type rigid chromed copper. Should these be replaced with braided ss compression types?
Are all brands pretty much the same or should I stick with BrassCraft?

 

[MKS]

You could remove clean and inspect the rigid for contamination corrosion and cracks. If it's good you could reassemble and check for leaks. Good quality braided would be an easy solution. Brass craft should be OK.

 

[Terry]

They look like IP stops. The leak looks to be at the top 3/8" fitting. Removing the tape would perhaps fix the leak.

 

[Fritz57]

I had the shut off and faucet (not that it would matter) off.
I still found driplets on the riser. Seems that would mean the shutoff is leaking even though it's a 1/4T.
Weird.

this is with the cover off and the valve as well as the faucet off. Driplets.
But since the hw and cw combine to a common spout, does this point to a leaky cw valve?

 

[Reach4]

I had the shut off and faucet (not that it would matter) off.
I still found driplets on the riser. Seems that would mean the shutoff is leaking even though it's a 1/4T.
Weird.



this is with the cover off and the valve as well as the faucet off. Driplets.
But since the hw and cw combine to a common spout, does this point to a leaky cw valve?

To me it says that the leak is above your picture. I guess you are saying that the stop valve in your picture is letting water through to leak out above.

Guess its time to replace that.

Those chrome pipes going up are better than flex installed IMO, but they are not as easy to work with.

I notice that the 1/4 turn stops in the catalog above show non-symmetrical handles and your stops show symmetric handles. However you can tell by feel if yours are 1/4 turn.

 

[DaveHo]

Water doesn't flow uphill. There will still be water in the faucet above the supply line.

 

[Fritz57]

they're def 1/4T in spite of what the ones in the cat look like.
I think either the taper at the top of the riser is damaged or corroded. I tightened a tad, still seeing water at the top nut.
I'll replace them.

 

[FullySprinklered]

Eleven replies and it still aint fixed. Jeeze, dude, it's a drip. Get a hand grenade and some duct tape and I'll show you how to fix it.
Clear a path to the nearest door.