Lead toilet drain needs replacing

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Scottt

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Hello. I'm remodeling a 1950's bathroom, and the toilet drain is an old lead pipe connecting to a cast iron closet bend (see picture below). I've been reviewing the other threads on this site, and it looks like I have two options:
1. Remove the lead pipe at the CI hub and use a doughnut connector to run PVC up to the toilet flange. From what I've read, I will have to drill the lead connection with 1/4" bits and use an old screwdriver or a chisel to chip out the lead. There may be a brass ferrel that needs to be muscled out too. Or...
2. Remove the CI closet bend at the horizontal CI hub and install a doughnut connector and new PVC closet bend. This will also require drilling and chiseling the lead connection at the hub.
My question: Is one of these options better or easier than the other? Or is there another option?
Thanks!
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Reach4

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If the closet flange would be in the right place after #1, that seems to be the better of your choices to me. Putting the donut is said to take a lot of force. So I would support the elbow before applying that force.

There may be another choice if the lead is long enough to extend much above the new finished floor.

It is also possible to lead in a PVC pipe into the CI.

I am not a plumber.
 

Scottt

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If the closet flange would be in the right place after #1, that seems to be the better of your choices to me. Putting the donut is said to take a lot of force. So I would support the elbow before applying that force.

There may be another choice if the lead is long enough to extend much above the new finished floor.

It is also possible to lead in a PVC pipe into the CI.

I am not a plumber.
Yes - it is in the right place currently. I've read that the donuts require alot of force - definitely will support the elbow. Thanks for your reply.
 

Terry

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You can either snap off the elbow and use a Mission coupling on that, or remove the lead and use an insert.
If you snap the pipe, measure to see what the OD is.
Some old cast is similar to copper sizing. 4-1/8" instead of the current 4-3/8"
In those cases I pick up a copper by cast coupling.
 

Scottt

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Thanks Terry. I went with removing the lead this morning. Wow! Harder than I thought. I wasn't expecting the brass ferrel to be so long. Here are some pics.
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Scottt

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What model donut insert do you recommend? Looks like the inside diameter of the CI hub is about 5". I plan to use a 4" PVC riser.
Also, do I need to scrub out the inside of the CI hub to ensure a good seal?

Thanks for the advice!
 

Terry

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What model donut insert do you recommend? Looks like the inside diameter of the CI hub is about 5". I plan to use a 4" PVC riser.
Also, do I need to scrub out the inside of the CI hub to ensure a good seal?

Thanks for the advice!
I pick up several different ones if I can. Fernco makes some.
A bit of liquid soap helps, then a board and hammer to tap it in.
 

Jadnashua

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There is a long list of various sizes available from the manufacturer at incremental OD's to fit almost any hub. There is no standard on this, but a local plumbing supply house often will have those for the most commonly used CI in their area. But, it depends on the age and the foundry - the only thing that is controlled is the ID of the main pipe, not the size of the hub since it would just get filled up with lead...it is what every they felt was best for them when making it! The exact correct one goes in much easier than one slightly big. Go too big, and you may never get it in. Go too small, and it may not seal.
 
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