Installation of Skirted Toto toilets -- a question

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by Herrada, Sep 26, 2010.

  1. Herrada

    Herrada New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    New Mexico
    I have a question about the installation of some of the skirted Toto toilets, such as the Carlyle II, Soiree II, and Vespin II. The installation of these generally require the attaching a Unifit adapter to the floor with 4 screws. I am wondering if this is appropriate for all types of floors, and in particular mine. My bathroom floors are thick terracotta Saltillo tiles over a concrete slab with embedded radiant heat piping.
    In this case, I assume that anchor plugs will have to be used. How long are the screws and anchors that are used in the installation? I am wondering how far into the slab they would need to go. Further, i am wondering if I risk hitting hitting the radiant heat piping. I didn't install the radiant heat, it was done about 17 years ago and I don't know what the convention was then. Would they have put radiant heat piping directly behind the toilet drain/flange? Further, how deep into the slab would they have put the piping? Is there a risk with this installation or do I really have nothing to worry about. Any idea how the terracotta Saltillo tiles will hold an anchor and screw? Thanks for the help!
  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,153
    Location:
    New England
    ANy idea how thick the tile are? If they are in the area of an inch, that should be enough for a plug. You might be able to turn the heat on, then using a thermal imaging camera or an IR thermometer, you should be able to locat the pipes.
  3. Basement_Lurker

    Basement_Lurker One who lurks

    Messages:
    668
    Location:
    Victoria, BC
    I really doubt anybody would be stupid enough to embed tubing that close to a toilet flange....but hey, the graduates from moron college never seem to get held back...

    If you are really paranoid, and it is better to be safe than sorry, then you can just glue down the rear "ears" of the unifit adapter with construction adhesive, and bolt the front flange to the existing toilet flange. That will be more than enough to do the installation securely.

    You should be more concerned about making sure the shutoff valve is positioned properly.
  4. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,130
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    The screws that come with the Unifit are not very long. And they are pretty small, we use a 1/4" bit in tile for the plastic drop-ins that the screws thread into.
  5. Herrada

    Herrada New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    New Mexico
    Yeah, maybe i am being a little paranoid. ;-) But I've seen enough stupid things in this house that it makes sense to question everything. I wouldn't put heating pipe between the toilet drain and the wall, but then I didn't build the house. The only think that would be more stupid is running the heating pipes under the built-in bathtub. The terracotta Saltillo tile with a bit of mortar is a good 3/4" thick. My concern is the the strength of the terracotta to hold the anchor and screw. Maybe if I just build up mortar in place of the tile where the screws will go it will be a little stronger It will be covered by the toilet so no one will see it.
  6. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,153
    Location:
    New England
    You don't really have to worry too much about the toilet getting lifted, but getting knocked sidways. The screws will work fine in shear. A little polyseamseal around the base of the toilet to prevent crud from getting underneath, and it isn't going anywhere.
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