DirtyJerz
Member
Any ideas? Do I give up and pay $150 for a plumber to screw on a nut for me? lol
How do I get this nut (?) off?
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1.5" or 1.25" slip joint nut? Normally they fit pretty loosely and seal with the SJ washer. Is there a bent thread preventing that? A triangle file can clean those up.
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DirtyJerz
Member
It's 2". The start of the threads looks off, I'll see if I can put another picture up…
wwhitney
In the Trades
What's the exact OD of the threaded portion? 2.0" isn't very likely, to my understanding. 2.375", or 1.9" would be.
Cheers, Wayne
Cheers, Wayne
DirtyJerz
Member
lol yeah i got confused with the sizes. it's 1.5.
DirtyJerz
Member
Okay here are pictures from all angles, please help me out guys 
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Are these photos of a vertical wall that you will feed the kitchen p-trap to?
Looks like you might need to cut a little wall away on the left.
I am thinking screwing on a nut like this, and use the washer with the bigger hole: https://www.homedepot.com/p/OATEY-1...th-Rubber-Reducing-Washers-HDC2698C/316622089
Or use https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1...Drain-Pipe-Zinc-Slip-Joint-Nut-8033/304318915 with https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1...nged-Rubber-Washer-2-Pack-HDC7195C/316622092?
Looks like you might need to cut a little wall away on the left.
I am thinking screwing on a nut like this, and use the washer with the bigger hole: https://www.homedepot.com/p/OATEY-1...th-Rubber-Reducing-Washers-HDC2698C/316622089
Or use https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1...Drain-Pipe-Zinc-Slip-Joint-Nut-8033/304318915 with https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1...nged-Rubber-Washer-2-Pack-HDC7195C/316622092?
DirtyJerz
Member
It's a powder room so bathroom sink, but yes. I already have reducing washers, etc, but…
The problem is I cannot thread either a metal or plastic nut onto this thing. Forget traps or anything else, I just cannot get the new nut to go on it properly. Without anything else attached, just the nut by itself.
The problem is I cannot thread either a metal or plastic nut onto this thing. Forget traps or anything else, I just cannot get the new nut to go on it properly. Without anything else attached, just the nut by itself.
DirtyJerz
Member
And just to clarify what happens…the nut will go on and do maybe one or two turns. After that it gets stuck. Almost like a mismatched taper?
wwhitney
In the Trades
Have you tried threading on a 1-1/2" FIP fitting to see if it would mate properly? If the threads are tapered and for some reason a slip joint nut won't work on them, then the solution may be a fitting like this:
But I'm guessing a bit here, I'm not really clear on how the female threads and male threads on that product actually differ.
Cheers, Wayne
But I'm guessing a bit here, I'm not really clear on how the female threads and male threads on that product actually differ.
Cheers, Wayne
DirtyJerz
Member
Thanks, since it’s Amazon I ordered it. Same problem. The threads are similar but the “outer” connection is a compression one rather than a slip nut.
wwhitney
In the Trades
I don't follow your description.
Are you saying that (a) the SJ nut on that product does not freely tighten down all the way on the threads coming out of the wall and that (b) the female threads on the adapter also don't seem to mate properly with the threads coming out of the wall?
If so, I'm stumped.
Cheers, Wayne
DirtyJerz
Member
Correct, both have the same behavior as what I get with the SJ nuts I got from Home Depot. Locks on for about two turns and that’s it.
Sounds like you are implying that the threads at the wall are not 11.5 TPI (threads per inch) pitch.
There are thread gauges if you are interested. You could also make an impression with clay or something, and measure the distance between N threads. The tpi would be D/(N-1) where D is the distance and N is the number of threads involved in the measurement.
There are thread gauges if you are interested. You could also make an impression with clay or something, and measure the distance between N threads. The tpi would be D/(N-1) where D is the distance and N is the number of threads involved in the measurement.
DirtyJerz
Member
Got a thread gauge. 11.5 seems right (also wow, inches are crazy enough, but the standard threads are 11 and a half?)
Next step is to take a small flathead screwdriver and clean the threads I guess?
Next step is to take a small flathead screwdriver and clean the threads I guess?
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/npt-national-pipe-taper-threads-d_750.html has some dimensions and TPI.
Good chance you are dealing with 1-1/2 nominal. If that is the case, you should be able to screw a standard nut and washer to accept slip joint 1-1/2 inch pipe, which is actually 1-1/2 inch OD.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/OATEY-1...th-Rubber-Reducing-Washers-HDC2698C/316622089 is an example. You would use the washer with the bigger hole for 1-1/2.
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Jeff H Young
In the Trades
on the desanco trap adapter the female thread is tapered pipe thread the male side is straight threads and the nut will screw on easy till it bottoms out.
Dirty Jerz have you tried that eastman 35401 that Wayne posted? if the nut doesn't fit the adapter will
Dirty Jerz have you tried that eastman 35401 that Wayne posted? if the nut doesn't fit the adapter will
DirtyJerz
Member
Yeah I tried both, didn’t work. Here’s a video of me trying both pieces as well as regular nuts
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wwhitney
In the Trades
Have you inspected the copper threads on the wall fitting? It looks like the brass trap adapter starts for a turn by hand and then gets hung up. If that's correct, then if there's some deformity to the second or third thread (if there is a third thread), that would explain why it gets stuck.
In which case a viable strategy is, I believe, to be sure you've started it correctly by hand (not cross threaded) and then put a wrench on it to see if you can turn another turn without extreme force. If it's a thread deformity that is thereby reshaped, the trap adapter should then thread on farther by hand (starting over).
However, my confidence in the above diagnosis is low enough that you should wait and see what other people have to say about the video. Since using more force could cause damage if the threads are in fact mismatched.
Cheers, Wayne
In which case a viable strategy is, I believe, to be sure you've started it correctly by hand (not cross threaded) and then put a wrench on it to see if you can turn another turn without extreme force. If it's a thread deformity that is thereby reshaped, the trap adapter should then thread on farther by hand (starting over).
However, my confidence in the above diagnosis is low enough that you should wait and see what other people have to say about the video. Since using more force could cause damage if the threads are in fact mismatched.
Cheers, Wayne
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
If you've got a steady hand, something like this may work...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LFKK0HG?ref=vse_pfo_vwdp&th=1
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