A retention tank and a storage tank are not necessarily the same thing. A storage tank is usually at atmospheric pressure, while a retention tank can be under normal house pressure. A booster pump is needed to re-pressure the water from a storage tank, to the pressure tank, and then to the house.
Okay, thanks for the info. It has been a while since my original post but now have another question about preventing well pump short cycling. Here is the basic background info.:
The system contains a bladder pressure tank, and two retention tanks(water filled under house pressure). Water comes in from the well pump(3/4 hp) 120 ft well with 60' water, into the house(using 1" PVC) and charges an 80 gallon bladder tank(tank A) set at 38 psi. the pressure switch is at this point. It then goes thru a 1- 1/4"ck valve and into the two retention tanks(120 gallon each) which are in series(water fills tank A then tank B). From tank B it outputs to a tee fitting where the first leg goes thru a 1"ck vlv to house water and the second leg outputs to outside hose/drip irrigation. The pressure switch is set for 50/70.
The current problem is that when the pump starts(at 50 psi, it pressurizes the system, but near 70 psi it starts to short cycle).
I believe the well pump has trouble due to current design flaw.
I have researched out and believe there are two courses of action to take(after bumping up pressure tank to within (but below) 2 psi of cut in pressure):
1. Remove 1 1/4 ck vlv.
2. move pressure switch to tank B.
3. different system design ?
Naturally I prefer to leave the ck valve in place but it is the easiest of the two options to try out first....
Note: on tank B output there is a 3/4 hp booster pump that will be used for outside water only and it has a 25 psi input pressure limiter per instruction...but this pump is currently bypassed until short cycle issue is resolved. There is also a chlorine injection system that injects chlorine in line input tank A. Also there is a filter system 3 stages to remove iron particles.