Homeowner question on private well tanks

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Ceramicbrad56

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1. will I need a booster pump and put the holding tank and air over water tank in series after the pressure tank.?
2. If booster pump necessary, what is best placement and what size(obviously do not want it to move more water than submersible...
3.Can I remove the pressure tank(it is 16 years old) and rely on the Flotec FP7250 with the air volume control float instead?
 
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ThirdGenPump

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I think you should reevaluate your treatment method rather than design a new system around it.
 

ThirdGenPump

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Do you have a bacteria problem?
Have you done any comprehensive testing?

Your only described issue is iron residue that you're current filter is successful at taking out. If you start chlorinating water with iron in it you're going to see more oxidized iron not less. It isn't all going to settle out in the tank, you'll still need a physical filter.

Head over to the water softening forum and ask for advice there.
 

Ceramicbrad56

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Hi. I understand there will be more iron settling out. That is what I think is needed. I have looked at the filter section and have included three filters in the design. I think you are focused on the iron and chlorination.
 
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ThirdGenPump

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Yes if you dump water into an atmospheric tank you'll need to re-pressurize it afterwards. That requires a booster pump.

I looked at your attached file, Rube Goldberg would be proud.
 

Boycedrilling

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The wellmate UT-120 IS a pressurized tank. I however prefer and use the Flexcon BAF-120 tank. The baffles in this tank are much more effective in mixing the chorine into the water. The baffles increase the effectiveness of the tank by a factor of 4 over an unbaffled tank.
 

Ceramicbrad56

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The wellmate UT-120 IS a pressurized tank. I however prefer and use the Flexcon BAF-120 tank. The baffles in this tank are much more effective in mixing the chorine into the water. The baffles increase the effectiveness of the tank by a factor of 4 over an unbaffled tank.
I see. Thank you for the information. I have not heard about that type of tank before...
 

Ceramicbrad56

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Yes if you dump water into an atmospheric tank you'll need to re-pressurize it afterwards. That requires a booster pump.

I looked at your attached file, Rube Goldberg would be proud.
Ok, I removed the drawing. I can see you have an axe to grind and don't feel like offering solutions, just criticisms. I will go elsewhere for help.
 

Ceramicbrad56

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Wow! No need to be so easily offended. We were trying to help. I was just waiting on enough information to be able to comment.
Ok. No offense taken. You stated a booster pump would be needed. Where is the best location for booster pump when using retention tank? After the pressure tank and the retention tank?
 

Valveman

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Ok. No offense taken. You stated a booster pump would be needed. Where is the best location for booster pump when using retention tank? After the pressure tank and the retention tank?

A retention tank and a storage tank are not necessarily the same thing. A storage tank is usually at atmospheric pressure, while a retention tank can be under normal house pressure. A booster pump is needed to re-pressure the water from a storage tank, to the pressure tank, and then to the house.
 

Ceramicbrad56

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A retention tank and a storage tank are not necessarily the same thing. A storage tank is usually at atmospheric pressure, while a retention tank can be under normal house pressure. A booster pump is needed to re-pressure the water from a storage tank, to the pressure tank, and then to the house.
Okay, thanks for the info. It has been a while since my original post but now have another question about preventing well pump short cycling. Here is the basic background info.:
The system contains a bladder pressure tank, and two retention tanks(water filled under house pressure). Water comes in from the well pump(3/4 hp) 120 ft well with 60' water, into the house(using 1" PVC) and charges an 80 gallon bladder tank(tank A) set at 38 psi. the pressure switch is at this point. It then goes thru a 1- 1/4"ck valve and into the two retention tanks(120 gallon each) which are in series(water fills tank A then tank B). From tank B it outputs to a tee fitting where the first leg goes thru a 1"ck vlv to house water and the second leg outputs to outside hose/drip irrigation. The pressure switch is set for 50/70.
The current problem is that when the pump starts(at 50 psi, it pressurizes the system, but near 70 psi it starts to short cycle).
I believe the well pump has trouble due to current design flaw.
I have researched out and believe there are two courses of action to take(after bumping up pressure tank to within (but below) 2 psi of cut in pressure):
1. Remove 1 1/4 ck vlv.
2. move pressure switch to tank B.
3. different system design ?

Naturally I prefer to leave the ck valve in place but it is the easiest of the two options to try out first....

Note: on tank B output there is a 3/4 hp booster pump that will be used for outside water only and it has a 25 psi input pressure limiter per instruction...but this pump is currently bypassed until short cycle issue is resolved. There is also a chlorine injection system that injects chlorine in line input tank A. Also there is a filter system 3 stages to remove iron particles.
 

Ceramicbrad56

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Yes remove the extra check valve an place the pressure switch as close to the pressure tank as possible.
Valveman:
Thanks.. Removed 1 1/4" ck vlv. Pressure switch is currently about 7' away from pressure tank.Waiting for PVC cemented joints to dry. Will post results in hour or so.
 
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