HOMEDEC Shower System Installation Questions

[Michael Doran]

I purchased a HOMEDEC shower system for $700 and I hate to say this about anyone but the plumber on my addition project was actually angry and very unprofessional and refused to install it. He couldn't even give me a rational reason other than "I did one of those years ago and it was junk." I understand there are different qualities of products out there and that some people like to work with products they are used to but this was over the top. The product has many great reviews and very few negative (only really the nipple length that comes with it but they sent 1" 7/8 and 2" nipples and I can get these locally no problem in many lengths), seems good quality brass, etc and is over $2000 less than equivalent Kohler/Delta systems. I purchased this at the beginning of my project and cannot return it so I am resolved to using it moving forward understanding that if it does have a problem down the road I can cut out the drywall on the back of the shower and fix/replace if need be. Another plumber offered to install it for $2500 and I declined out of self respect and decided to give it a go on my own.

I have now installed the unit myself and understand that the depth of the drop ear elbows is critical and I believe I have them set accordingly. I have a couple questions for you veterans out there and I'm looking for guidance and positive input.

1. When I put the drywall back on how big a hole should I put in the drywall for the drop ear elbow/nipple connections? Just big enough for the nipple or can I go a tad bigger but smaller than the covers?

2. What kind of whole should I cut in the drywall for the valve? Should I try to cut out 4 circles or just a tight square?

3. I know the depth of the drop ear elbows is close but there is no way I can be exact only knowing the thickness of the tile. Can I safely assume that I can either cut or purchase a nipple to get precise after the fact? Or add another rubber insert?

4. I have put temporary nipples on the jets, etc. to pressure test and will leave the water on over night. I don't have any other way to air test it. Is this sufficient or is there any other methods you would recommend without having to purchase a bunch of stuff?

Attached are some pictures and any and all positive input to help this be a successful project would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you,

-Mick

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

The angry plumber probably lost a lot of money due to a leak caused by a similar system that he installed that a customer provided. He probably mentioned at the time that he thought it wasn't worth installing but the customer insisted. So he goes and installs it and a few months go by.. theres a small leak that shows up but the customer doesn't really notice.. then later its a bigger leak and the drywall of the ceiling below is blown out and the ceiling is full of mold.. So yeah, probably a triggering event. But to answer the nitty gritty...

1. When I put the drywall back on how big a hole should I put in the drywall for the drop ear elbow/nipple connections? Just big enough for the nipple or can I go a tad bigger but smaller than the covers?

No smaller than the nipple obviously and no larger than the escutcheon that covers it when finished.. but ideally as close to the nipple as possible. There shouldn't be any need to get in there later if you've done the work properly.

2. What kind of whole should I cut in the drywall for the valve? Should I try to cut out 4 circles or just a tight square?

Most shower controls come with a mud ring that guides the size of the hole. If not then you will need to look at the trim plate. Determine if the plate can set flush on a plane/flat surface or has a concave to it. If it sets flush, then you need to cut the hole as large as needed to be able to secure it with the screws or be able to access any integrated shut offs if it came set up that way.

3. I know the depth of the drop ear elbows is close but there is no way I can be exact only knowing the thickness of the tile. Can I safely assume that I can either cut or purchase a nipple to get precise after the fact? Or add another rubber insert?

Nipples generally only come in 1/2" increments. so they jump from 1 , 1.5 , 2 , 2.5 etc. The fine adjustment comes from how far you screw them into your drop ears and sprayers. More or Less teflon tape material can also help in adjuting the depth.

4. I have put temporary nipples on the jets, etc. to pressure test and will leave the water on over night. I don't have any other way to air test it. Is this sufficient or is there any other methods you would recommend without having to purchase a bunch of stuff?

Your manufactures instructions you read for the pipe assuredly mentioned that you shouldn't pressure test with air.. you read that? And no.. if you have to have testing equipment.. you probably will need to buy it. Tho why can't you just turn the water on and see if it leaks?

BTW... Most body spray set ups recommend a pressure loop so that each of your outlets get the same volume and pressure of water. I won't mention which plumber that offered to do the job would have installed it that way to begin with.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Storm rider]

Please tell us that you are not going to put tile over drywall in a shower.