Here’s perhaps an odd question

[Casman]

Welp, it’s been awhile since I started the bathroom remodel. The folks here helped greatly and I got the DWV all completed.
I’m goofing off today and decided to hook up the sink, while we continue waiting for our tile order.
Question: I’m looking at the layout for the sink and I don’t like how far down the wall drain was placed. So I plan to open the “finished wall” and raise it. Can I leave the current in place, cap it, and cut and fit the new one higher up?
The in wall 1 1/2 pipe is also a vertical vent. The drain enters the pipe then goes straight down. I’d like to not tear up more of the wall than I have to. I’m using a bottle trap and it will look goofy with a long drop. Thanks

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

If the drain and vent are vertical, then yes, you can raise the trap arm up. I hate extra long tail pieces under exposed sinks.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

I presume you intend to cap the old santee behind the wall, and spackle/plaster over that, rather than having a visible cap.

 

[Casman]

I presume you intend to cap the old santee behind the wall, and spackle/plaster over that, rather than having a visible cap.

Correct, I was thinking of maybe just doing that then reworking up top. Uggh, I don’t like having to open the wall. It’s a true dimensional outer wall insulated with aerogel. But I know I’d dislike the ugly long drop pipe. Here’s where I started this project, and where I’m at now…

 

[wwhitney]

I presume you intend to cap the old santee behind the wall, and spackle/plaster over that, rather than having a visible cap.

If the wall's being opened up, and a vertical vent/san-tee/drain is there, then rework will require using two (shielded) rubber couplings). So a sufficiently long section with the san-tee can be cut out, and a new section with a higher san-tee can be put in its place.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Reach4]

If I were going to use a bottle trap, I would take careful steps to make sure that the santee was pointed exactly at the trap.

 

[Jeff H Young]

I'd remove the tee unless planning to have an accessible plug and call it a clean out.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

That install needs to be clean. just the bottle trap. If it needs to be snaked out they can take the trap apart.

I would like to know what shower valve is in the wall tho. Just out of curiosity.

OK.. more than curiosity.. Just want to make sure its not one of these valves bought online..

 

[Casman]

If the wall's being opened up, and a vertical vent/san-tee/drain is there, then rework will require using two (shielded) rubber couplings). So a sufficiently long section with the san-tee can be cut out, and a new section with a higher san-tee can be put in its place.

Cheers, Wayne

Thanks Wayne, will do as you suggested.

 

[Casman]

If I were going to use a bottle trap, I would take careful steps to make sure that the santee was pointed exactly at the trap.

Will do as suggested, thanks. It’s fairly exact now as the sink stub isn’t installed, but will make sure when I open the wall.

 

[Casman]

That install needs to be clean. just the bottle trap. If it needs to be snaked out they can take the trap apart.

I would like to know what shower valve is in the wall tho. Just out of curiosity.

OK.. more than curiosity.. Just want to make sure its not one of these valves online.

View attachment 76396

Oh boy, it is similar looking, purchased online with the rain head/ wand etc. Here’s a pic of the exact one I purchased:

 

[Reach4]

Will do as suggested, thanks. It’s fairly exact now as the sink stub isn’t installed, but will make sure when I open the wall.

While the wall is still open, you can rotate the sanitary tee by loosening the straps on the couplings.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

purchased online with the rain head

That valve is a Hard No for me. Someone posted a question about it from like Saudi Arabia and I started looking into it. Half of the reviews are Great.. and the other half (the ones I believe) are absolute nightmares.. There is a thread on here about how the valve creates water hammer problems and how to Hack/Solve that. Just found the Thread Here

I recently had to Hard No that setup for a client when I saw it.. I have ZERO experience with that valve and plan to never install one. My advice would be to remove and replace it before you get it covered with tile..

 

[Casman]

That valve is a Hard No for me. Someone posted a question about it from like Saudi Arabia and I started looking into it. Half of the reviews are Great.. and the other half (the ones I believe) are absolute nightmares.. There is a thread on here about how the valve creates water hammer problems and how to Hack/Solve that. Just found the Thread Here

I recently had to Hard No that setup for a client when I saw it.. I have ZERO experience with that valve and plan to never install one. My advice would be to remove and replace it before you get it covered with tile..

Yikes. I’m experienced with a grand total of 1 valve body. I think it was a Moen, but that was a few decades ago. Can you recommend a bulletproof valve? While I do have access from behind the wall, I’d first have to remove a 500lb Cast Iron Combination fireplace which I’d rather avoid.
I didn’t give it much consideration and even where made didn’t matter as near everything is from there these days.
I budgeted $6K for the remodel and that figure is long gone. The tile alone was $6K and I’m currently around $25K, so a bad valve would not be an option. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

What style was the trim for that valve? A few manufactures make temperature setting and diverter valves in one faceplates. I like Delta for these.

 

[FullySprinklered]

That install needs to be clean. just the bottle trap. If it needs to be snaked out they can take the trap apart.

I would like to know what shower valve is in the wall tho. Just out of curiosity.

OK.. more than curiosity.. Just want to make sure its not one of these valves off of hoocky web sites..

View attachment 76396

I did one of those valves a few months back. Posted something about it. The valve wasn't a problem for me but the finish hardware was very much a problem. SunRise brand. The female threads that usually receive the shower arm and the hand held stub, have to be almost flush with the finished surface to allow their very special hardware to work. Had to go in from the back through the closet to adjust the depth by cutting the bracing loose and pulling everything back into the wall and reattaching. Customer was unhappy with the holes in the closet. I was just happy to get out of there.

 

[Casman]

What style was the trim for that valve? A few manufactures make temperature setting and diverter valves in one faceplates. I like Delta for these.

I think that style is similar. Thanks.

 

[Casman]

I did one of those valves a few months back. Posted something about it. The valve wasn't a problem for me but the finish hardware was very much a problem. SunRise brand. The female threads that usually receive the shower arm and the hand held stub, have to be almost flush with the finished surface to allow their very special hardware to work. Had to go in from the back through the closet to adjust the depth by cutting the bracing loose and pulling everything back into the wall and reattaching. Customer was unhappy with the holes in the closet. I was just happy to get out of there.

Yes, it is the Sun Rise label. Mine has the Waterfall ceiling mount and separate hand sprayer. I was off my renovations away for a college Football game and actually picked up my tile order while on the trip. Didn’t realize how heavy the tile is and nearly overloaded the minivan. The sprayer connection from memory as I’m asleep seems in a bit from the Wedi board. So not flush at this point.