Fleck Drain Line

Users who are viewing this thread

rss1978

New Member
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Texas
I am fixing to install a Fleck 9100. I can run a drain right into my drain for my septic tank...this is what my old Kenmore softener was on...but I would rather reroute the line outside of my house into an open area by my drive. I do not have to worry about killing grass or trees at this location and the waste water will not have to go into my septic.

My question is in length to the drain line. The total length to get to where I need it is about 55'. Nothing will be uphill...in fact all is down hill. It will drop from the valve straight down to my floor...4 or 5 feet. From there, it will probably drop another foot or foot and a half. I will have multiple turns to get it from garage closet, out of house, down side of house, down fence line, and finally to location. I think it will have about 10 90-degree elbows total. I am going to use 3/4" PVC. Does anyone see a problem with this setup...particularly with length of run or elbows? Thanks for assistance.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,749
Reaction score
4,400
Points
113
Location
IL
Is your well pump set for 40-60 PSI or 30-50 PSI. It is the water pressure that propels the water out of the drain line. I am not going to know the answer, but the answer to the pressure question could be helpful to whoever might.

How cold is the pipe going to get during that run? Lubbock got down to -17F once.
 

rss1978

New Member
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Texas
Pump is set at 40-60 psi. Coldest temps I can remember are 10-15 degrees F. Usually the coldest overnight lows are about 20 degrees F. Rarely does it stay below freezing here over 24-48 hours. There would be about 20 feet hugging the house foundation. I planned to bury the rest of outdoor pipe (15 ft or so) about 4 inches until near the end where it will be exposed.

Correct me if I am wrong, but pipe should be empty until water is being pushed from system regeneration. I would be very surprised if the water during regeneration could freeze before being pushed from pipe. Am I wrong with this assumption?
 

Mikey

Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek
Messages
3,024
Reaction score
17
Points
38
Location
Hansville, Washington
A lot can happen in 55', especially with small-diameter pipe and lots of 90° elbows in there. When draining, and under pressure, you should be OK, but I'll bet you a beer that there will be water left in that run after the regeneration is over. Remember, the only reason water in the pipe is being pushed out is because of the new water being pushed in. When that stops, the only thing encouraging the water to leave the pipe is gravity, and I doubt anyone could run a 3/4" pipe with 10 ells and align everything so it drains empty. What happens then is anybody's guess. Of course, above freezing, there should be no problem. But suppose a freeze sets in right after regeneration and things stay frozen until the next one -- 8 or 10 days later, maybe? Water in the pipe could freeze, and either a) burst the pipe, or b) clog the pipe. You'd probably be better off bursting the pipe, but that's just a guess. I'd run a larger pipe, and/or insulate it, at least. And if freezing is likely, run some water down the line every few hours to keep things flowing. You could also lay heat tape with the pipe, inside the insulation, which might be the easiest way to prevent freezing.
 

rss1978

New Member
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Texas
Would I just be better off having it run to my septic tank instead of trying to route it outside? That would be the easy way to do it. How bad is it for a septic system? I am reading conflicting information on the detriments to a septic system.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,749
Reaction score
4,400
Points
113
Location
IL

Mikey

Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek
Messages
3,024
Reaction score
17
Points
38
Location
Hansville, Washington
In fact, you could maybe tee to a high loop that goes to the septic that would carry water only when the ditch pipe was not accepting the water.
I like that, but I'd want a backflow preventer of some kind in there, just in case the septic was not accepting the water.
 

rss1978

New Member
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Texas
I like the idea of having a valve to use the septic if I wanted to.

Mialynette...I planned to have a Tee as the run from the valve down began. On the top side of the Tee, I was going to run about a foot or two up for an air vent. Would this work to eliminate the vacuum? I figured with an air vent here and an open end that would suffice.
 

ditttohead

Water systems designer, R&D
Messages
6,088
Reaction score
455
Points
83
Location
Ontario California
The tee would be adequate to allow the system to not collapse. I have seen many tanks collapse over the years. The most recent was one of the local installers ran a drain pipe down a hill in the Ranch Palos Verdes area. The drain line was about 60' lower than the softener, a new tank was ordered, and a vent tee was installed, all is now ok.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,749
Reaction score
4,400
Points
113
Location
IL
Wow. Wouldn't have thought about that. I wonder how much rise on the tee vent would be enough to prevent water rising out if the drain pipe is not clogged. Maybe a vacuum breaker on the tee would be wise to prevent a geyser in the case of a clog.
 

ditttohead

Water systems designer, R&D
Messages
6,088
Reaction score
455
Points
83
Location
Ontario California
A simple spring vacuum break is always a good idea but if it is in an area that is not subject to water damage then it may simply be unnecessary.
 

rss1978

New Member
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Texas
So dittohead.... Do you recommend that I install the spring vacuum breaker? It is in an area that I don't need a geyser! I was just going to go up and leave an exposed open pipe as we discussed on the phone earlier. But if a spring vacuum breaker is a little extra insurance, I am willing to do it. Can you give me an idea of exactly what I would need? I am unfamiliar with a spring vacuum breaker. I assume it would attach at the end of the vent pipe?
 

ditttohead

Water systems designer, R&D
Messages
6,088
Reaction score
455
Points
83
Location
Ontario California
It is basically a light spring check valve, (real plumbers on this site please correct me if I am wrong). We add them to large commercial equipment, but I think for your application a cheap "cheater vent" might be good. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-1-2-in-ABS-PTC-In-Line-Cheater-Vent-39012/100204205
345f8e75-00b2-47b3-bc6f-6439716d4631_400.jpg
 

Mikey

Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek
Messages
3,024
Reaction score
17
Points
38
Location
Hansville, Washington
Have you ever done any testing to find out exactly how much pressure it takes to collapse a tank? A 60' water column can only provide a little over 26psi, which doesn't seem like much, and of course (thanks, Reach4) a perfect vacuum only results in a little under 15psi at sea level, so I remain surprised that a tank will collapse. But I've been surprised before...
 
Last edited:
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks