Fixing a kinked supply line at slab exit

[DIY007]

Hi,

As per the pictures, my copper supply line for my hose bib exiting the slab was kinked and a nail plate set right against it. After 20 years of house settling, it finally developed a pin hole leak. I have cut the the line and temporarily capped it with a sharkbite.

I was thinking I should move it an inch or so within the wall, so I have good clearance from the sheetrock and baseboard, although I maybe able to clear the sheetrock/baseboard as is by a 1/4".

What is the best and proper way to fix this? The line leaving the slab is not perfectly perpendicular, slightly leaning towards inside the house, which is why it was kinked to begin with, to force it inside the exterior wall. I was also considering adding a shutoff valve a foot or so above the slab with an access door so I can shut off during winter.

Please let me know your thoughts.

Thanks!
DIY007

 

[Terry]

You did a good job of finding a round pipe there that sealed.
You may want to use two sharkbite fitting and some PEX for that repair. Either that or get the torch out and solder some new copper in.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Dj2]

The point where the tube is coming up from under the slab tells me that the plumber was less than proficient. There is no excuse for this.

Trouble is you can't move it under the slab (no joints allowed under the slab), so the only way is to divert it into the wall above the slab. Thinking about it, you might as well leave it as is.

A shut off valve will be useful, just make sure it's accessible and easy to operate.

 

[Jadnashua]

A properly installed frost-free silcock would prevent freezing problems if that's your major concern. There are even some that will still work if you happen to leave a hose attached. It doesn't hurt to add a shutoff inside, but the nice thing about a frost-free silcock is that you don't have to think about it, especially if you're not home when it happens to freeze. Woodford makes some that will drain, even with a hose still attached, and they also have some that can have both hot/cold running water, but that would require running a new hot line. That can be nice for certain things.

 

[WorthFlorida]

Just on Monday I was at my son's house with nearly the same situation but there was no leak. Since the wall was patched from the garage maybe at one time there was but the copper was bent and with some crimps from a pair of pliers. House built in 1977. So we went with of its not broke don't fix it. You do not want to move that pipe any more nor try to press your luck. As Terry suggested change over to PEX if you really need that spigot with a Sharkbite coupler and go with CPVC pipe, from the coupler, whatever you're comfortable with.

 

[DIY007]

Thanks everyone !

Yes, the hose bib is a frost-free silcock, so I'm good there. I was planning on just putting in new copper as Terry suggested. However, I got stuck trying to figure out how to move the line a 1/2 inch or so deeper in the wall cavity. I was looking at using two 90's back to back but that would be too deep. Otherwise, I will just cut out the remaining kinked section and connect with new copper, although the line may rest on the sheetrock for a portion.

Any further suggestions/advice, please let me know.

 

[Themp]

Would two 45's back to back work?