Filter Installation

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by BS, Dec 25, 2008.

  1. BS

    BS New Member

    Messages:
    50
    Location:
    Central Ohio
    Our raw well water has a hydrogen sulfide taste and odor problem. A point-of-use charcoal filter at the kitchen tap has solved the problem there. Our neighbor has solved the same problem with two whole house charcoal filters and we want to do the same.

    This weekend I'm planning to install three whole house filter cartridge housings in series, one for sediment and two for charcoal, in the well water supply line between the pressure tank and water softener. If experience shows that the second charcoal filter is not necessary, I'll just leave that housing empty. Any advice or comments? Would it be wise to install a filter bypass?

    In the future we want to shift the supply for the outside faucets from softened water (existing) to untreated water. As part of the filter installation project I'm thinking of tapping into the supply line and adding a capped stub for future connection to the outside faucets. It seems simple enough but I'm wondering if there are any special considerations for stubs (locations, lengths, etc.) to prevent problems from trapped air or unmixed water?

    Thanks.

    - Bernie
  2. leejosepho

    leejosepho DIY scratch-pad engineer

    I have my filters between a ball valve and a check valve, then I have a second pressure tank between that check valve and my water softener. With that arrangement, other people in the house can flush a toilet and/or wash their hands or whatever else even while I am servicing the filters.

    I put a same-sized tee in the line just ahead of the filters to supply the outside spigots, and I put another tee between the filters and the water softener to get filtered-only water for drinking water and ice in the kitchen.
  3. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    I agree with a real filter instead of a disposable cartridge type but, it would be very helpful if there was a list of things to test for instead of not defining a "complete water analysis"...

    Is there a hidden message in there somewhere?
  4. Redwood

    Redwood Master Plumber

    Messages:
    7,453
    Location:
    Connecticut
    You didn't pick up the subliminal message?:eek:
  5. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    I had a mental image flash by.
  6. sammyhydro11

    sammyhydro11 Previous member

    Messages:
    709
    Location:
    Massachusetts
  7. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    Sammy, since Andy won't list what tests are included in "a complete water analysis", and you always use a Certified Lab for "a complete water analysis", make your self useful and help BS by listing what tests he should have a lab do for him.
  8. sammyhydro11

    sammyhydro11 Previous member

    Messages:
    709
    Location:
    Massachusetts
    Gary Slusser Strikes Again!! Oh Gary...a potability test will do just fine. Ho Hum Ho Hum Ho Hum..


    sammy

    www.tylerwellandpump.com
  9. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    So you are saying BS and all others should test for everything from A to Z but, on your web site you say a Certified Lab test will be between $75 and $125 and something is wrong, somewhere, because all that A-Z stuff will cost thousands and thousands, right? Or don't you know that much about the prices?
  10. sammyhydro11

    sammyhydro11 Previous member

    Messages:
    709
    Location:
    Massachusetts
  11. BS

    BS New Member

    Messages:
    50
    Location:
    Central Ohio
    As I get ready to do this (see post #1), I have a couple more questions:

    1. It doesn't appear that I can isolate the pipe between the pressure tank and the softener before I cut into it. I can close a ball valve at the pressure tank, but there are no downstream valves in the pipes before they branch off throughout the house.

    The only thing I'm not sure of is the softener itself (Kenmore UltraSoft 400, model #625.388400). It has a built-in bypass valve but with only two positions: bypass or service. The owner's manual makes no reference to shut-off or check valves. So it seems that when I cut into the line all the pipes in the house will drain out on me. I can certainly be prepared with a bucket or two or three, but I wonder if I'm overlooking something?

    2. When I install the filter housings, I'll also add an isolation valve between the filters and the softener. Is there a need for a check valve or backflow prevention device?

    - Bernie
  12. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    After shutting off the water and putting the softener's bypass valve in the bypass position, you open a faucet in the house and the water will drain out where you cut the pipe where you want to start plumbing. There won't be more than a few gallons, then close that faucet.

    Rather than installing shut off valves in the plumbing, you should have bought valve in head type filter housings. They allow turning off the water in and out of them and relieve the water pressure in the sump at the same time.

    Ball valves are the right type, not gate valves. I hope these filters work for you, I wouldn't do it this way, I'd use a correctly sized backwashed Centaur carbon filter if I used carbon.

    No check valves.
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