Depressurize before BLFC inspection?

[Wally107]

Well THIS isn’t good...

Regen appeared to going fine, BD took about 20.5 min till air-check shut it off...but just went to BF...and NOTHING, i.e. no water moving AT ALL in the line...ahhhhhhh!!!!!!!

The BLFC definitely moved air freely tank-to-valve (BD direction), but I had to blow very, very hard to to get air through in the valve-to-tank (BF) direction.

Not sure what to now. Either the diaphram thingy in the BLFC is all fubar’d, or I screwed up the injector or screen (although BD went fine).

Grrrrrrrr..........

 

[Reach4]

I would be removing that diaphragm thingy.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Wally107]

Tempted, but it kinda seems like it’s supposed to be there. It’s a black rubber diaphram, with a teeny, tiny hole in the center. As I said, I could blow easily one way. But reverse, I could feel it slap shut, and it was all I could do to get any air through. So I agree, it’s my first suspect.

Worst case, anyone know where I can buy a 61450-00 BLFC?

I think I’ll start a new BLFC thread.

 

[Reach4]

I suggest you look to see if you actually have a BLFC in there, and if so, what numbers are molded into it. 123 or what?

 

[Wally107]

I looked reeeeally close at it...even under a magnifying lens. It does have numbers, and it’s either 123 or 125. I presumed it was 125, since it’s a 0.125.

 

[Reach4]

3. Inspected valve end of brine line (BLFC). Appears unobstructed, but I have a question:

This appears to be a diaphram sorta thing, and I can blow fine one way, but seems much more constricted the other way. Is that normal?

I misunderstood you. I thought you meant some additional gadget in the brine line externally to the valve. I did not think you were talking about the BLFC and its housing. Keep that of course!

I think 123 was to avoid somebody thinking that was a DLFC.

 

[Bannerman]

As Ditttohead explained in your other thread, the BLFC button is a flow restrictor that is designed to work directionally. With only 0.125 gpm fill rate, the hole in the center will be very small and restrictive. When flow is reversed while drawing brine from the brine tank, then there will be less restriction and brine will also pass by around the outside circumference of the button in addition to through the centre hole. Ditttohead recommended to replace the button as it can dry out over time.

The drawing at the bottom left of the page linked below, shows how the BLFC button will maintain the rated flow rate regardless of pressure. This is why the button is directional and the correct orientation is with the numbers facing the valve.

https://view.publitas.com/impact-water-products/2018-catalog-final/page/1

 

[Wally107]

Understood. As of right now, it’s flowing fine in BD, but absolutely nothing in BF.

I believe I found the correct button (part #17307) and I’ll try to get it ordered tomorrow.

Fingers crossed...

Wally

 

[Bannerman]

As the BLFC button controls only the fill rate, I anticipate your 7000 will require a complete rebuild as I suspect there is currently no water availability to the BLFC button.

To rule-out the BLFC as the cause for no fill flow, you might first temporarily remove the BLFC button and then reassemble to advance the controller to BF to determine if there will be any water flow into the brine tank.

Assuming there continues to be no fill flow, to verify if the issue may be caused by a seal/spacer issue, you might remove the seal & spacer stack and reinstall each in an alternate order to determine if there is any change during BF. While the seal-spacer stack and piston are removed, inspect each for tears, abrasion or other defects before lubricating and reinstalling.

 

[Wally107]

Thanx Bannerman! Here's my plan:

1. Ordered a new 17307 button this morning. Only $8 bucks delivered, so nothing to lose. Shows IN STOCK, but nowadays, it's anyone's guess when it will arrive.

2. When it gets here - I'll pop out the old one, and run a BF (as you suggested). Assuming good flow:

3. I'll install the new one and do another BF.

Ugh...I really was trying to avoid messing with the seal/spacer stack. I'm comfortable doing it....just really, really don't wanna .

 

[Reach4]

To rule-out the BLFC as the cause for no fill flow, you might first temporarily remove the BLFC button and then reassemble to advance the controller to BF to determine if there will be any water flow into the brine tank.

I would predict the flow would be 1 gpm or bigger, but not certain. Worthwhile test I think.

4. Removed screen and injector (which is purple #00). Both were quite dirty. I scrubbed them clean as best I could, and buttoned it back up.

What did the dirty material look/feel like?

 

[Wally107]

I would predict the flow would be 1 gpm or bigger, but not certain. Worthwhile test I think.

What did the dirty material look/feel like?

Was kinda light brown, dirt / scum looking. Washed off fairly easy. The bottom end of the injector was pretty plugged. I'm presuming it was just 9 years off dirt from the salt (Morton Solar Crystals).

I'll try to post the pics I took.

 

[Wally107]

Pics - sorry...best I could do with my phone.

 

[Bannerman]

When it gets here - I'll pop out the old one, and run a BF (as you suggested). Assuming good flow:

If you do the test today with no BLFC installed, then you will know if to proceed on to do the seal/spacer reinstallation test. If a rebuild kit will be needed, the sooner you make that determination, perhaps the rebuild kit can be shipped together with the new BLFC so you may not need to wait for a second shipment.

 

[Wally107]

As the BLFC button controls only the fill rate, I anticipate your 7000 will require a complete rebuild as I suspect there is currently no water availability to the BLFC button.

To rule-out the BLFC as the cause for no fill flow, you might first temporarily remove the BLFC button and then reassemble to advance the controller to BF to determine if there will be any water flow into the brine tank.

Assuming there continues to be no fill flow, to verify if the issue may be caused by a seal/spacer issue, you might remove the seal & spacer stack and reinstall each in an alternate order to determine if there is any change during BF. While the seal-spacer stack and piston are removed, inspect each for tears, abrasion or other defects before lubricating and reinstalling.

Hey Bannerman! Kinda bored at work today, so I've been giving this a little more thought...and I'll apologize in advance if this is a dumb question:

If the button controls only the fill rate (presuming you mean BF), what's the logic for having specific sizes? Could you not then use a larger size, and just adjust the BF time accordingly? I've read the 0.125 are notorious for clogging due to the teeny tiny size.

Anyway - just curious...

 

[Reach4]

Was kinda light brown, dirt / scum looking. Washed off fairly easy. The bottom end of the injector was pretty plugged. I'm presuming it was just 9 years off dirt from the salt (Morton Solar Crystals).

Cleaning out the brine tank while you are at it?

Pics

Thanks. So not stuck on rust as far as you can tell. Was the screen retarding flow, do you think?

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/need-help-identifying-blfc-gpm.81026/ may be of interest.

 

[Bannerman]

Could you not then use a larger size,

Yes. You could install a 0.25 gpm BLFC which means reducing the BF setting to 1/2 of the current setting.

There is a limit to how high the fill rate can be, depending on the injector that is installed but there should not be a problem installing a 0.25 gpm.

 

[Reach4]

what's the logic for having specific sizes?

granularity.

 

[Wally107]

If you do the test today with no BLFC installed, then you will know if to proceed on to do the seal/spacer reinstallation test. If a rebuild kit will be needed, the sooner you make that determination, perhaps the rebuild kit can be shipped together with the new BLFC so you may not need to wait for a second shipment.

Wish I could...but stuck at work till ??? (911 dispatcher), and my next day off isn't till next Thurs.

All good though...worst case I'll just dump a few gallons into the brine well between regen's until I get more time.

 

[Wally107]

Cleaning out the brine tank while you are at it?

It's not crazy dirty - but yes...will definitely be cleaned. Of course, it's 2/3 full of salt...timing sucks .

Thanks. So not stuck on rust as far as you can tell. Was the screen retarding flow, do you think?

Looked more like a very light muddy 'film'. It wasn't really 'stuck on', and I didn't really think it was rust (more brown than red). House was built 2005 - all copper piping, and I've never seen any evidence of rust/iron anywhere (for whatever that's worth). Screen had the 'film' on it too, but wasn't completely clogged.

://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/need-help-identifying-blfc-gpm.81026/

may be of interest.

I guess I can only presume it's 0.125...??