Crossing Public street (gravel)

[bordercollie050]

I'm still in the process of removing my well pit (located across the street from my house) and to run the line for a pressure switch the permit person wants me to bury the line 4 feet deep. The problem is - there is also a phone line in the street (power is overhead).

I'm thinking about running the line myself (without a permit) b/c I dont want to go that deep.

Has anyone worked around utilities like this before? I know, if I hit the phone line with a trencher I'm scr*wed.

thanks!

 

[Boycedrilling]

Your options are 1; open cut, and 2; boring. I have used pneumatic hole hogs. I own 2 rod pushing machines and a directional drill.

Locally, my county requires you to attempt to bore under the road anywhere from 1 to 3 times before they will allow you to open cut the road.

You have to "pothole" first to find the existing utilities, regardless of the method you use.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[bordercollie050]

Your options are 1; open cut, and 2; boring. I have used pneumatic hole hogs. I own 2 rod pushing machines and a directional drill.

Locally, my county requires you to attempt to bore under the road anywhere from 1 to 3 times before they will allow you to open cut the road.

You have to "pothole" first to find the existing utilities, regardless of the method you use.

Thanks for your reply. What would you expect a contractor to charge for such a job (I can't have the road closed for long)........this might be the most expensive pressure switch on this board LOL

 

[Craigpump]

Are you familiar with laws that pertain to Call Before You Dig? In CT, if you do any kind of digging without calling CBYD first and you hit a utility (water, power, cable, gas, phone) your fine can be $10,000 per utility. Plus repairs.

 

[Reach4]

The short range control system from http://www.cannonwater.net/wirelesscontrolsystems.aspx http://www.remotecontroltech.com/wi...trol-system/short-range-wireless-plc-control/ might be a possibility. It would be set up in the mode where the pump turns off if the signal is lost. I don't have experience with it... just found it on the web. The receiver would control a relay, and the relay would control the pump.

https://www.controlanything.com/Relay/Relay/MIRC_SERIES would be cheaper, but I don't know what happens if the signal is lost.

Another solution is to bury a pressure tank by the well, and use a pressure switch with its sensor down the casing at the pitless.

 

[Valveman]

Could also do an in well tank, switch, and CSV. In well tanks are not big enough, but would work with the switch and then you can add another (small tank) at the house by itself.

This way all the electric stays on the other side of the road. All you need under the road is a water line, which I believe is already in place.

 

[Standardairconditioner]

I'm thinking about running the line myself (without a permit) b/c I dont want to go that deep.

Can you keep this thread updated with your progress and pics?

I just want to know if the advice on this thread is right and proper and results in success, or if it is outright dangerous and wrong and leads to a complete fiasco.

 

[bordercollie050]

Can you keep this thread updated with your progress and pics?

I just want to know if the advice on this thread is right and proper and results in success, or if it is outright dangerous and wrong and leads to a complete fiasco.

Overall the advice on this thread is pretty good.

I already know where the one utility (phone line) is burried (approximately) - but the permit office is giving me a hard time. They want someone with insurance to do the digging (contractor).

When it's all said and done it may be cheaper just to put in a new well, you can't even dig a hole without permits. I feel like doing the work late at night working on one side of the road at a time with my truck to block traffic on one lane (few cars on this road anyway).

 

[Smooky]

Have you thought about washing a pipe under the road? Sometimes you can wash a little and then pound a little to get one under. ....What is already under the road? What size is the water pipe? Is it sleeved? How far do you have to go under the road? For a wire you might be able to go overhead.

 

[bordercollie050]

Have you thought about washing a pipe under the road? Sometimes you can wash a little and then pound a little to get one under. ....What is already under the road? What size is the water pipe? Is it sleeved? How far do you have to go under the road? For a wire you might be able to go overhead.

The piping is fine (3/4 K -copper, that kind of copper (thick) will outlive me LOL)

I'm just trying to get a power line for a pressure switch. Going over is possible but everytime I think about getting near a transformer (HIGH voltage) I change my mind.......

 

[Valveman]

I don't understand the resistance to put the pressure switch at rhe well? I've done it a thousand times like that.

 

[bordercollie050]

I don't understand the resistance to put the pressure switch at rhe well? I've done it a thousand times like that.

The frost line here is about 4 feet, so that would mean burrying the tank or making some sort of vault. The area is rather saturated (which is why the pit wasn't working)

I don't know about an in well tank b/c if I ever had problems the parts would be hard to get and I don't even know what they cost b/c the company never replied back.

Anyhow, a trencher quoted me $1,000 to bore under the road but i get the feeling after they start the permit process that price will go up. And even if it doesn't my cost for wire will be about $200, AND removing the pit (all concrete, no steel/pvc casing................is this worth saving?). Right now the water is good (dry weather) BUT I don't know if removing the pit will fix the problem?

 

[Standardairconditioner]

Overall the advice on this thread is pretty good.

Again, please do keep this thread updated with your progress and pics.

Many would like to see if you actually do anything as a result from all this.

 

[PumpMd]

I still say this is the best way for less headache on crossing the road. It don't take much to heat this fiberglass well house.

 

[bordercollie050]

Again, please do keep this thread updated with your progress and pics.

Many would like to see if you actually do anything as a result from all this.

do anything? I tore up the side of the road pretty good last year trying to put in a 300ft drain pipe for this well pit (got 1/2 done and rained out). Rule #1 out here in the midwest is never leave a hole open longer than a few hours b/c ground water will fill it

Anyhow, I'm going to get the pit removed soon - since there is only concrete for casing I will install a 6" PVC with pitless and pour concrete footing then backfill with dirt

It looks like some sort of vault may be my only option b/c now "county" will be watching.........

 

[bordercollie050]

I still say this is the best way for less headache on crossing the road. It don't take much to heat this fiberglass well house.

When it's -10 with a 30mph wind it would take a lot to keep that box from freezing - unless it was covered by sod (grass decreases the frost line substantially).

 

[PumpMd]

When it's -10 with a 30mph wind it would take a lot to keep that box from freezing - unless it was covered by sod (grass decreases the frost line substantially).

Nope, small area with insulated walls as you can see in the picture. Just make sure it's anchored good and you are good to go because Oklahoma has way stronger winds than 30mph. (Tornado ally here in Oklahoma)

 

[bordercollie050]

Nope, small area with insulated walls as you can see in the picture. Just make sure it's anchored good and you are good to go because Oklahoma has way stronger winds than 30mph. (Tornado ally here in Oklahoma)

Our frost line is 48" (under grass maybe 18-24") I would need to go with a low profile pressure tank (some suggest small tanks anyway) . Does anyone think it would be possible to get by at 36-40" deep with tank on bottom and control box center and maybe a foot or so of foam on the underside of cover.

 

[PumpMd]

Our frost line is 48" (under grass maybe 18-24") I would need to go with a low profile pressure tank (some suggest small tanks anyway) . Does anyone think it would be possible to get by at 36-40" deep with tank on bottom and control box center and maybe a foot or so of foam on the underside of cover.

Our frost line is 18-24" here in my area

 

[Texas Wellman]

I have installed many wells where the well is hundreds of feet away from the tank and pressure switch. It will work ok, no need to have the switch at the well. Are you running new cable and pipe? Remember the KISS method-keep it simple stupid.