CPVC for Tub Spout

[Bozo]

I had a friend help me install the piping for my tub / shower set up. He used all CPVC piping. The tub spout looked a little unstable to mount the (pretty heavy 2.85 lbs.) Moen S3896 tub spout on because an accident or any significant pressure like someone leaning on it could break it off the CPVC pipe. I asked about it but he said it would be fine. After a Google search on CPVC and tub spouts it appears that CPVC or PEX should not be used for the piping to the spout.

The valve body is a Moen U232CIS

What is the correct method to pipe the tub spout supply with or tub / shower piping in general.

Any help would be appreciated.

Pictures of the tub / shower piping install:

 

[WorthFlorida]

You are correct, tube spouts must be copper. Depending on the type of tub spout, some must be a copper pipe so a copper flange can be shouldered on. The shower head was done in copper so your friend had the materials and skill? It also would look better with the spout in the center of the tub drain, however, the valve body is not centered but the spout is centered with the valve body.

The valve body is 1/2 " thread or 1/2" sweat fitting.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[John Gayewski]

You could either sweat copper or thread brass. Copper is more common.

 

[Jeff H Young]

More than one way to fix it. I wouldnt trust the handheld either I make them super solid because when screwing on the finish some times you have to crank pretty hard getting the threaded fitting pointed to where it needs and cpvc is a bit fragile .

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

Both of the CPVC stub outs are a Hard NO. You could plumb CPVC to a brass threaded female drop ear 90 to more easily replace the CPVC outlets, but both need to be securely mounted to solid wood blocking.

I know that most if not all manufactures do not recommend plumbing a tub spout through a transfer valve either.. They likely put out about 6gpm so you have to decide if the gallons it takes to fill the tub will be too long to wait or if its just fine for the amount of times you use the bathtub.

 

[Bozo]

I know that most if not all manufactures do not recommend plumbing a tub spout through a transfer valve either..

I'm sorry that way over my head...

 

[Bozo]

You are correct, tube spouts must be copper. Depending on the type of tub spout, some must be a copper pipe so a copper flange can be shouldered on. The shower head was done in copper so your friend had the materials and skill? It also would look better with the spout in the center of the tub drain, however, the valve body is not centered but the spout is centered with the valve body.

The valve body is 1/2 " thread or 1/2" sweat fitting.

So a drop eared and copper for the tub spout and leave the rest piped with CPVC will fix this issue?

 

[GReynolds929]

If plumbing through a tub/shower valve with a diverter spout then the spout piping must be copper. This is through a transfer valve so the restrictions in flow is not an issue other than noted by tuttles.

 

[Bozo]

Thanks for the guidance everyone.

So is the general consensus to install threaded drop ear 90 at the tub spout and add copper for the tub spout and add another drop ear 90 for the hand held screwed it to added 2x4 backing and I should be good. or do I need to replace any of the CPVC piping with PEX?

 

[Jeff H Young]

If you can be certain not to put any strain on the cpvc with out replacing it all the way to the valve its probebly ok tub might not fill quite as fast either

 

[Bozo]

If you can be certain not to put any strain on the cpvc with out replacing it all the way to the valve its probebly ok tub might not fill quite as fast either

Both of the CPVC stub outs are a Hard NO. You could plumb CPVC to a brass threaded female drop ear 90 to more easily replace the CPVC outlets, but both need to be securely mounted to solid wood blocking.

I know that most if not all manufactures do not recommend plumbing a tub spout through a transfer valve either.. They likely put out about 6gpm so you have to decide if the gallons it takes to fill the tub will be too long to wait or if its just fine for the amount of times you use the bathtub.

So the CPVC supply to the valve is ok but going out to the tub spout should be copper or PEX to a brass threaded female drop ear 90 and copper or galvanized pipe out of the drop ear 90 to the tub spout to not restrict the water flow?

 

[Jeff H Young]

Im a plumber but personaly Id never use pex or cpvc for any portion of the tub spout. my concer is something breaking look at the flimsy handheld . There might be concern over the possibility of reduced flow at tub spout because id is a bit smaller on all plastic unless it was 3/4 . So id love to give a solid answer and my answer would be eliminate the plastic to handheld and tub all the way to the valve . over kill maybe but Thats my way

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

So the CPVC supply to the valve is ok but going out to the tub spout should be copper or PEX to a brass threaded female drop ear 90 and copper or galvanized pipe out of the drop ear 90 to the tub spout to not restrict the water flow?

The CPVC to the valve is OK.. not a problem. The 2 outlets need to be brass threaded drop ear 90's that are secured to the framing to prevent ANY transfer of twisting energy from threading the outlets or operating the tub spout.

The transfer/diverter valve limits the flow of water to something like 5gpm... I don't think any manufacture recommends a tub filler through a transfer valve... But so long as your expectation is 5gpm to fill a tub, it shouldn't be an issue.. its when we have people who expect 10gpm like they would get out of the tub/shower valve but have their tub filling from a transfer valve that we hear of complaints. I also don't know the specific valve or your water pressure/volume capacity to know the exactly what you will experience.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Yes a brass to cpvc drop ear is ok they have 3 screw holes shouldnt move , I try to keep the hand held female adapter deep in the wall so I can get a nipple for the trim to fit

 

[Bozo]

The CPVC to the valve is OK.. not a problem. The 2 outlets need to be brass threaded drop ear 90's that are secured to the framing to prevent ANY transfer of twisting energy from threading the outlets or operating the tub spout.

The transfer/diverter valve limits the flow of water to something like 5gpm... I don't think any manufacture recommends a tub filler through a transfer valve... But so long as your expectation is 5gpm to fill a tub, it shouldn't be an issue.. its when we have people who expect 10gpm like they would get out of the tub/shower valve but have their tub filling from a transfer valve that we hear of complaints. I also don't know the specific valve or your water pressure/volume capacity to know the exactly what you will experience.

I purchased the suggested items to correct the valve piping.

8" X 12" copper stub
1/2" copper male adapter
1/2" X 1-1/2" brass nipple for the handheld shower
1/2" CPVC / Stainless drop ear 90 for the tub spout and handheld shower

Honestly I don't think many baths will be used in the bathroom mostly showers. I just purchased the tub to have one in the house and to have that option if wanted or necessary but yea I can see the 5 gpm being an issue.

 

[Bozo]

You are correct, tube spouts must be copper. Depending on the type of tub spout, some must be a copper pipe so a copper flange can be shouldered on. The shower head was done in copper so your friend had the materials and skill? It also would look better with the spout in the center of the tub drain, however, the valve body is not centered but the spout is centered with the valve body.

The valve body is 1/2 " thread or 1/2" sweat fitting.

A better picture of the spout / center of the tub drain.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Again try to be certain that the hand held threaded adapter is set back in the wall deep enough so that your finish trim works

 

[Bozo]

Again try to be certain that the hand held threaded adapter is set back in the wall deep enough so that your finish trim works

Copy

Moen product spec says the nipple extends 3/8" out from the finished wall so I'll back set the drop ear 90 back to allow the 3/8" to extend out.

 

[Reach4]

The nipple that you screw into the wall should be brass.

You can use more tape if you want the nipple to stick out a bit more.

 

[Bozo]

The nipple that you screw into the wall should be brass.

You can use more tape if you want the nipple to stick out a bit more.

The nipple is brass, stainless drop ear 90 and not sure what the Moen A721 series drop ell is made of.

Can you please go into more detail on what you mean about using more tape for the nipple to stick out more?