Broken pipe flange/lip

[castufari]

This morning the mrs dropped a contact lens down the sink again so I once again pulled the trap out. While reassembling it I noticed that the flange on the wall side is cracked about 1/3 of the way around the pipe. What is the best way to repair this? I didn't want to reassmble the unit until it is fixed.

This pipe has a 90 degree turn then goes into the wall where it looks to be welded to the original drainpipe, which seems to be lead or something. I can't get into the wall nor behind it.

Thanks much,
Rick

 

[Mike Swearingen]

Is this flange a galvanized collar or an adapter?
If it is, it should be threaded and it should be replaced. Use pipe compound or 2-3 flat wraps of teflon tape wrapped clockwise only on the male threads.
Mike

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Cass]

If it is the part that comes from the wall and 90s down to the trap it will have to be replaced. This may be more than you want to deal with if it is sodered in. How old is the house?

 

[castufari]

The house was built in 1915. (never again)

Could I resolder a replacement in? I have some soldering stuff from when I had to fix a few leaky copper joints in the mid 90s.

 

[Plumber1]

sink drain

Can you better explain what all of the materials your looking at are made of?

We're just trying to guess what you are really talking about.

Unless you have lead drains.......

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

leave sleeping dogs lie

if it is not leaking and only appears cracked,

why mess with it......

But If you must scratch that itch,

then just put either some epoxy on it or use some clear

silicone .... either one will probably extend the life

of the fitting another 15 years.


If you really want to get yourself into trouble,
and tear into it,
post a picture of what you are talking about ,

it might be wise


happy new year

 

[castufari]

If you look at the left side of the picture where that 90 degree turns down you'll see the crack - it's right above the black washer. I put the trap back on this, tightened it up and it proceeded to leak. The 90 is chrome, the section it is attached to looks to be chrome also.

I think the lead is gone, we had a leadhead underneath the toilet that died shortly after we moved in.

Thanks folks, I really appreciate the help!

 

[Jadnashua]

You should be able to loosen the nut at the top of that elbow and pull that 90 degree piece out. It probably sticks into that straight pipe for at least a few inches...it is a compression fit, tightened down by that nut. From the direction you are looking at it, turn it counter-clockwise to loosen it (you're looking at it from its bottom).

 

[castufari]

That nut doesn't tighten there, in normal mode it's on the end of the 90 where the lip is.

I'm going to the store shortly, I'll see what they have, I might cut that out and solder a new section in.

 

[hj]

trap

It appears that the pipe is soldered into a plain piece of copper tubing. If so, then you should be able to heat it until the solder melts and pull it out. Then remove the chrome plating from the new trap and solder it in after reassembling the trap. You could also cut the tubing off and solder on a male trap adapter which fits over the tubing. Then slip the trap in and tighten the nut.

 

[castufari]

I cut the 90 off, at the joint was a piece that connected that to the main pipe. Apparently part of the pipe was damaged previously, as when I cut it part of the pipe between my cut and the wall crumbled. GRRRR. No one is open now that has 1.25" pipe, so I'll be hunting around on Tuesday. Funny how if something like this happens to me it's usually when the supply places are closed.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

Do Not Melt That Out.

you got two ways to skin this cat,

personally I choose the easy way every time....

the leak is at the ell, so just get a hack saw and
cut that chrome nipple back to about an inch and a
half out from the wall

then you got a 1 1/4 chrome nipple comming out of that cast fiting.
as long as it is not brittle , it will work great.

all you gotto do from there is buy a 1 1/4 grey FERNCO fitting
and clamp onto that chrome nipple. then just get yourself
a 1 1/4 pvc trap and you are done

this is what I do for my own customers,
and it is good for a long time.

It might not look too pretty, but
its cheap and easy and works
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Now if you want to really beat yourself up...and take the
manly path, .....

Just my opinion here but.....

DO NOT try to melt that out of the wall

cause you got to sweat another one into place........

that is hard as hell to make work right......

I NEVER ATTEMPT THIS ANYMORE
its EXTREMELY unsafe..especially in an old home...


I have set a house on fire once in my younger
days on one of these stupid fittings...

that is NOT FUN putting out a
smouldering fire in the wall...... NOT FUN AT ALL

I suggest you get a SAWZALL with a steel cutting blade
and cut it back to the wall, then basically all you got to do
is sawzall out the brass ferruell that is threaded into the elbow...
from the inside of the nipple

make a couple of cuts through the brass down to the steel threads

then simply chisel it out of the elbow fitting.....it will break up
very easily if you have made a few good cuts down to the steel.


then all you got to do is get 1 1/2 pvc threaded male adapter
and screw it into the fitting in the wall


and the rest you shoule be able to figure out....


I can see the cast in the picture and I see the the threaded brass
solder bushing screwed into the cast......it should be fairly easy to do.





happy new year ,

 

[castufari]

The PVC route will suffice. I looked at that closer, there is enough solder on there to build another Hoover Dam. The PVC route sounds perfect, I'll hit the plumbing place in the morning.

 

[Plumber1]

leak

When I look at that picture, I see a 1 1/2" x 1 1/4" white metal jam nut.

If it is, you could take the whole thing out of the wall by pecking away with a sharp wood chisel.