Thanks Reach. Even 10 minutes of running introduces a lot of air into the lines or else I would do intermittent breaks of watering. Ideally, I'd like to somehow stop the water from being pulled out.
I would put a pressure gauge on the house plumbing during those conditions.
Based on your expectations, the pressure would go lower than zero (a vacuum). The air would be admitted when you open a faucet, and then later that air would come back out of a faucet once the irrigation is off.
So if the pressure stays up at the pressure tank, this would imply that there is a lot of pipe between the pressure tank and where the house and booster pump input lines tee. You might want to video the pressure gauge at the pressure tank to confirm the pressure gauge stays over 30 at the pressure tank.
So anyway, in answer to your question, you could put a
spring loaded check valve to feed water to the house after the tee. That means no water in the house during irrigation. A spring loaded check valve will knock maybe 2 psi off of the pressure to the house when you are using water in the house. If you add a check valve, you will also need to add a
thermal expansion tank for the water heater.
If the booster pump got its water from a different pipe, teed off at the pressure tank, this vacuum might never happen.
If you use no water in the house, water for 2 hours, turn off irrigation, and then get air from the house faucets, then the pump is running the well dry and sucking air. If no air is coming into the pipes through the house faucets, it has to come in from somewhere. The pump intake is the only other possible source, unless you have a vacuum relief valve in your system. You might.