Bathtub plumbing

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by flashpipe, Jul 21, 2008.

  1. flashpipe

    flashpipe New Member

    Messages:
    6
    We're connecting an existing bathtub to all new pipes and I've got everything run up to the tub but am having problems connecting everything.

    You can see photos at http://www.brianandheather.info/house/bathroom.html

    The main problems I have are:
    1) the supply lines I bought won't fit the compression shut-offs I got and I can't find compression shut offs that will fit, but I'd like to use them.
    2) I'm not sure how to connect the drain so that I can avoid putting in an access panel if possible.
    3) and (although I will probably be able to figure this out online) what do I use to secure the faucet to the tub??

    Thanks!!
  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,824
    Location:
    New England
    Depending on your inspector, you may have trouble getting the installation of that faucet installed into that tub - today's codes would not allow it. Depends on how he feels about repair verses improvement. The tub filler spout can't be below the flood rim of the tub in today's code so, you couldn't install a tub like that.

    The nut on that supply line needs to be threaded from the other end - it uses the flange on the pipe to compress the seal against.

    You should be able to find compression shutoffs. www.watts.com has a big catalog. May not find them in a big box store, but you can find one that would work then call around.
  3. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    Messages:
    8,997
    Location:
    San Diego
    [​IMG]
    Did you get that drain inspected yet? That santee will not pass.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 22, 2008
  4. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,309
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    tub

    The tub filler spout can't be below the flood rim of the tub in today's code so, you couldn't install a tub like that.

    You are mistating the application. That faucet does set above the tub rim.

    The nut on that supply line needs to be threaded from the other end - it uses the flange on the pipe to compress the seal against.

    the type of connection on the faucet determines how to do it. That faucet may have a straight thread and use lock nuts with tapered nosepieces.

    We cannot tell the size of the supply lines without some reference point, but they are probably 1/2" o.d. copper/brass. If so, you should be able to find "slip joint" stops which have a larger opening and rubber washers to make the seal.

    What is wrong with the drain's tee? EVERY waste and overflow uses a "sanitary tee".
    [​IMG]
    Maybe 1/2" OD tubing.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 22, 2008
  5. flashpipe

    flashpipe New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Hmm...I was actually told that we didn't need to get a permit or inspection since we aren't doing any electric yet. We live way out in the country and this is basically the same way it was connected before...

    The bottom of the faucet is above the bottom of the overflow drain, is that the problem? Does this just cause a potential overflow problem?

    Anything that can be done to this with this setup, or would I need to get a completely new faucet??

    Any advice on connecting the drain? Would using the fernco and making an access panel be the only option?

    Thanks!!
  6. flashpipe

    flashpipe New Member

    Messages:
    6
    HJ, the supply lines in the floor are 1/2" copper, the compression s/o valves fit fine there, but the standard ones I got at HD, DON'T fit the larger supply lines to the tub.

    Thanks for the answers/clarification/discussion on some of this...there are some other questions on the page with the pictures...not sure if that helps or makes it any clearer regarding the drain problems...

    THANKS!!!
  7. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,824
    Location:
    New England
    A lot of ifs here, but if the drain was plugged and if the valve was still opened, and if there was a hiccup in the supply pressure, you could possibly have the tub spout in the bathwater. It could, under those circumstances, suck dirty bathwater into yours and your neighbors' drinking water. That is why the filler is supposed to be above the flood rim.

    Now, is it likely to happen...no, but the plumbing codes are there to protect both you and the public water supply system.

    This is also why a handheld shower must have a vacuum breaker to prevent it sucking up that same bathwater, and they have special valves on sprinkler systems to protect the drinking water.
  8. flashpipe

    flashpipe New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Ah...I see. We are on a well and we don't use our water for drinking anyway, so it might not be as much of an issue.

    I went to a plumbing supply store and showed them the pics, and they sold me the PVC adapter for the drain (yay! no access panel) and told me to bring the rest of the faucet and supply lines in and they can outfit me so everything will fit...WHEW!!

    Thanks for all the help, and I'll post some "finished" pics when I get there.
  9. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,808
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    [​IMG]
    Normally you would use a trap adapter here.
    Most are for 1-1/2" or 1-1/4", however, many clawfoot tub drains are 1-3/8". Whoever sells clawfoot tubs and the tub drains should have the slip joint washer that reduces 1-1/2" to 1-3/8"
  10. flashpipe

    flashpipe New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Thanks Terry! Someone else was looking at these pictures and told me that this setup was a major code violation because of the venting? Is that the case?? Also, since we're on a well and don't drink our water, is the flood rim issue still a problem?

    Thanks!!
  11. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    Messages:
    8,997
    Location:
    San Diego
    You say you don't drink your water, but that water is available at the taps for someone....a guest, a future owner of the house, etc. so yes I believe that code section is still applicable. Now, since this is not really a "remodel" then your existing setup is probably grandfathered.
  12. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,309
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    tub

    You just need the correct stop valves. There is nothing in the pictures to indicate whether you have any venting, regardless of whether it is correct or not, so anyone mentioning that is guessing about things they cannot see. The tub spout MUST be above the rim of the tub, not above the overflow opening. Usually that type of faucet is installed on risers which place it at the proper elevation. IF yours fastens through the side of the tub, and I have not seen that in 50 years, then your faucet cannot be used and you must get one with an elevated spout.
  13. flashpipe

    flashpipe New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Hmm...bummer...wish they would have indicated that when I purchased the faucet. Any chance it would be "grandfathered" in since the old plumbing was hooked up just like this? It was a cheaper faucet, but in the same location.

    As far as venting, the tub and sink both drain into a 4" PVC pipe in the wall that runs down to the septic and up to the roof vent. You can see that better at in the lower right-hand image (you can just make out the vent pipe) at:
    http://www.brianandheather.info/house/bath.html

    Thanks for all the help!!
  14. Redwood

    Redwood Master Plumber

    Messages:
    7,453
    Location:
    Connecticut
    You may ask if they will allow the faucet with some type of backflow prevention device installed.
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