Any idea what softener valve this is?

[Dirt Sailor]

First post! I just purchased a house with this water softener, but it was in bypass "because of low pressure/flow rates". I've never owned a water softener, but definitely want to get it back up and running, and would like to do it myself. It looks like it could be a Fleck 2510, but the dials are not in the same location in the pictures i've seen. I need to know for replacement parts, and how to adjust it for a larger tank (details below).

I took it of bypass and forced a regeneration cycle and the water ran brown/cloudy for a while (I assume because it was in bypass for some time) but then appeared to be providing soft clean water. After a couple of hours, water flow began to drop to the point when running the bath, nothing else in the house would work.

After some googling and research, I determined that the resin was probably bad since we are on chlorinated city water and the resin probably hasn't been touched in 10 years. I also think that the 8"x44"" tank is small for our family size (4) and water hardness (19 grains). I used this site (http://www.apswater.com/Water_softener_Calculator.asp) and determined that I needed a larger tank for our family and to get the flow rates neeed. I just purchased a 12"x52" tank and 2.0 Cu Ft of new resin, new distributor tube and basket (still trying to find a top one that fits; non twist-lock type).

My question is, what do I do to adjust the valve for my new tank size? Hopefully I didn't get something oversized for the valve itself. I sure am glad I found this forum and wish I would have checked here before buying anything! Here are some more pictures.

 

[Reach4]

Looks like Fleck 9400.

https://www.softenerparts.com/kb_results.asp?ID=153

That's not going to be much help. You are probably going to decide to buy a new controller too. Sorry.

I am not a pro.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Bannerman]

As Reach4 suggested, you're going to need a new control valve.

You may wish to consider the Fleck 7000SXT. It is a newer design than the 5600SXT, has a higher flow capacity and the pricing has recently become competitive with the 5600SXT. If you tell the dealer the size of your tank, they should then supply the appropriate injector (likely #2 Blue) as well as the DLFC button (3.5 gpm drain flow) and BLFC button (suggest 0.5 gpm brine tank fill).

In addition, you should also install a gravel under bed which will help with flow distribution through the resin bed.

Don't worry if you can't locate an upper basket. There are plenty of installed softeners which do not have an upper basket.

The sizing calculator at this site: http://www.qualitywaterassociates.com/sizing.php is easy to understand and includes the programmed regeneration capacity for various salt settings. It recommends a 2 cuft softener as the minimum size for your 19 gpg hardness and 4 people.

 

[ditttohead]

The Wolverine!!!
Nice catch on that. I have only seen a few of these odd ducks. It is a custom valve by Fleck. It uses the 9000 upper piston, and I think a standard 5600 seal and spacer kit, but not 100% sure on that. It also uses a standard 5600 meter assembly and bypass and 2750 tank adapter.
Definitely time for an update. You can easily replace the valve with a 5600SXT, 2510SXT, these would be almost a direct replacement. Then kindly donate the valve to a local museum.

 

[Dirt Sailor]

Yep, that's it; looks exactly the same. Thanks for the info guys. I'll have to pick up some gravel underbed. I've read conflicting info on it and opted not to get it, but it does make sense. How much for my 12x52 tank?

Ughh...I definitely wasn't planning on spending the extra $300 for a new valve. Could the ole "wolverine" hold me over for a while until I get a new valve, or is it not going to work at all? I can deal with a bit more water/salt loss from more frequent regenerations or slightly less softened water if that's the case.

Any idea where to get the best price on a Fleck 7000 STX? PM me if that info can't be posted here.

 

[ditttohead]

The valve can likely be repaired still. You need a 9000 upper piston and a 5600 seal and spacer kit, should be a fairly simple fix.

Try SWS Systems in Florida, he is a great guy and offers very fair and honest pricing.

 

[Dirt Sailor]

Thanks Ditto. The Wolverine was working fine before I replaced the resin and upgraded the tank size. Do I still need a new upper piston, seal, and spacer kit?

I was thinking all I needed was a different size injector and possibly different DLFC & BLFC buttons, but I'm not sure which ones if I do. Anything else needed when increasing the tank size?

 

[Bannerman]

Usually when a control valve has been discontinued, replacement parts eventually become no longer available which is why the recommendation to replace the valve. Glad that Dittohead was familiar with that valve to know the parts that can be obtained to keep it going.

You are correct that the injector and DLFC may need to be replaced. I'm not sure if there is enough setting variance remaining to provide enough brine fill capacity with the existing BLFC button. Do you see another label specifying the existing BLFC flow rate?

Using the injector chart for a Fleck 5600, a #2 'Blue' injector is specified when using a 12" & 13" diameter tank whereas a #1 'White' is specified for 8", 9" & 10" tanks. I've seen other posters state a #1 White injector was used with their 12" softeners so you may want to verify before replacing it. I think the injectors are consistent among the various Fleck models.

The injector controls the rinse rate and brine draw flow rate from the brine tank. The Brine portion of the cycle is normally preset to 60 minutes length so the brine tank should be emptied within the initial 15 minutes of that cycle. If brine continues to remain above the pickup screen after 15 minutes, then the injector will likely need to be replaced with the larger version. The brine draw time is usually not changeable on mechanical controls.

The DLFC rate specified for a 12" tank is 3.5 gpm whereas your existing button is 2.0 gpm. The button is directional so the numbers should be facing towards the valve.

The salt setting should be adjustable. You did not include a photo of the brine control to view if the time setting maybe increased enough to provide the fill volume required for your new higher brine requirement, without needing to change the BLFC button.