Afraid of water-leaking when replacing faucet compression shut-off valve

[AZJeep]

I was kicking around picking up a few bell escutcheon so there would be room for a 1/2 coupling they stick out off the wall a bit more but never seen or used them other than ran across on some real old work, if there is a hold right or hyco coupling your kinda screwed inside a cabinet and sudenly the idea of a high box or a bell starts sounding a lot better than nothing.
you could put a fip on with nipple along with a deep flange

From what I can tell, I won't be able to find a bell escutcheon locally to cover everything up, even still I have those questions on soldering.

 

[Jeff H Young]

1/4 inch is risky combined with dents or out of round not good. better to make a hole in wall and get a good joint.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[AZJeep]

1/4 inch is risky combined with dents or out of round not good. better to make a hole in wall and get a good joint.

Man I really want to avoid that if possible, patching drywall isn't my idea of a good time plus it's location, behind the toilet - not good.

If I go with removing the escutcheon and cut behind the ferrule that'll give me a bit more room to work, I'd be between 3/8" and a 1/2" of good round pipe to solder to. That is why I'm wondering about the hinged escutcheons, I see they are mostly for floors or ceilings but it's better than nothing.

My current torch has a bigger tip/flame on it, going to pick up something with more of a pencil tip tomorrow, that should help.

I may have a bit more pipe to work with depending how far back the ferrule damaged the pipe, won't know until I can remove it.

I'm out in my garage now playing around with soldering fittings with small depths into the fittings. 1/4" is scary but so far it's held up to twisting with channel locks., but that isn't water pressure, hate to trust it based on that.

 

[AZJeep]

I have read that a butane mini torch won't work for soldering joints - is it larger pipes that are being referred to or will the solder somehow be weaker than normal? I just soldered a 1/2" coupler with little problem, the solder seemed to flow well. Looks good (knowing looks can be deceiving).

 

[Reach4]

1. I noticed that the dual shut-off valve has no easy place to have a grip on when tightening. I used a small channel lock pliers about 45 degree from the front sideways to hold it still when tightening. So, it was difficult to tighten the nut since holing still the dual shut-off valve was not easy. Is there any better way or tool to hold it when tightening the nut?

An "F type" right angle adjustable wrench might be a good thing. It would need narrow-enough jaws, but the handle should be pretty long, I would think.

Alternatively, maybe grasp the two flats with an adjustable locking pliers, and then run a big and screwdriver, or other rod, between the jaws to let you apply torque in the ideal direction. In other words, the locking pliers would extend away from the wall, and the giant screwdriver would be fairly near to, and parallel to, the wall.

In other words, the giant screwdriver would pass through the gap in the jaws between the brass valve and the hinge of the jaws.

I would not give up yet. Maybe get a stronger friend or use longer wrenches. If you can loosen the nut, you could put pipe sealant around the ferrule, and crank down again.

 

[Terry]

What a soldering kit can look like. I'm using Mapp but plain propane works too.

 

[NoviceDIYhomeowner]

JasonM​

Apr 12, 2020​

1. I noticed that the dual shut-off valve has no easy place to have a grip on when tightening. I used a small channel lock pliers about 45 degree from the front sideways to hold it still when tightening. So, it was difficult to tighten the nut since holing still the dual shut-off valve was not easy. Is there any better way or tool to hold it when tightening the nut?

This worked for me: turn valve handle out of the way, put on spare 3/8" compression cap in case it gets damaged, held still with large adjustable wrench.

 

[Plumbstar]

I'm posting this as much will apply:
I've been using Dahl stops for years for their superior quality. My only issue is the depth of the recess for 1/2" copper pipe. Most common existing valves are Brasscraft. When replacing BC with Dahl, while retaining existing ferrule & nut, the lack of depth in the Dahl causes the ferrule to be moved to meet the Dahl stop. I've had issues getting a seal especially if previous stop was over tightened. If there's excess pipe no problem. Even with ferrule removal tool, the pipe can be too distorted to get a seal. Please leave excess length stub outs during construction

 

[Jeff H Young]

I'm posting this as much will apply:
I've been using Dahl stops for years for their superior quality. My only issue is the depth of the recess for 1/2" copper pipe. Most common existing valves are Brasscraft. When replacing BC with Dahl, while retaining existing ferrule & nut, the lack of depth in the Dahl causes the ferrule to be moved to meet the Dahl stop. I've had issues getting a seal especially if previous stop was over tightened. If there's excess pipe no problem. Even with ferrule removal tool, the pipe can be too distorted to get a seal. Please leave excess length stub outs during construction

yep cutting stubs short looks clean but serves no real good. eventualy somebody be cussing about it!