1/4 turn supply line valves broke

[Blooze]

We recently moved into a new house and I went to check the shutoff valves under the sinks and toilets. All 1/4 turn Nibco. First toilet no problem. Second toilet was stuck. I slowly worked it back and forth a bit and it seemed to come free and turn to the off stop, but the water didn’t shut off even a little. Ok. Moved to the bathroom sink. Cold water was a little stiff but shut off the water. Hot water was stiff as well and seemed to turn but with some resistance. Hot water didn’t shut off a lick. At this point I’m stopping. I googled about but so no incidence of this happening. At least the main shutoff in the basement moves easily and freely. We also have a plastic manifold for all the lines the main goes into.

Obviously those two need replaced. I’m no plumber or even a good handyman so I’ll pay someone to do it. My concern is for those two valves that didn’t shut off did the stem shear from the ball most likely? If it did do I need to worry about them blowing apart until I can get them fixed? They haven’t leaked in the last hour or so. I think I’ll leave the rest alone and just use the main if I need to shut the water off unless it wouldn’t be too expensive to replace the dozen or so valves in the house.

My main concern is the valves causing a flood type situation.

 

[WorthFlorida]

No, the knob doesn't hold anything.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Blooze]

No, the knob doesn't hold anything. View attachment 57701

The knob didn’t come off. It feels just like your turning the the valve on and off. There’s a slight bit of resistance like a new one would feel, but it doesn’t shut anything off. I figured the stem broke from the ball. If that’s the case I didn’t know if the remains but of stem (with handle attached- there’s no screw attaching the handle to the stem) could blow out. Best I can figure these are original to the house (2004).

 

[Jadnashua]

Until you can get the handle 90-degrees from the on position, it will readily pass water. When they have been installed for awhile, depending on your water quality, hardness, and chemical composition, it can make it harder to turn. Usually, if you turn back and forth, you can break up whatever is holding it back, and get it to shut off. Sometimes, that doesn't happen, and the valve needs to be replaced.

If the valves are compression, or threaded on, it's a fairly simple procedure to replace them. If they're soldered on, that requires a bit more skill. If you posted a picture of yours, we could probably talk you through it...it's not particularly hard, and is a useful skill for a homeowner.

 

[Blooze]

Until you can get the handle 90-degrees from the on position, it will readily pass water. When they have been installed for awhile, depending on your water quality, hardness, and chemical composition, it can make it harder to turn. Usually, if you turn back and forth, you can break up whatever is holding it back, and get it to shut off. Sometimes, that doesn't happen, and the valve needs to be replaced.

I can get the knob to turn 90 degrees to the off position, but it does not slow the water flow one bit.

 

[Blooze]

I never updated this. Had a plumber come in to look at these and who ever originally plumbed the house didn't leave enough stub out to get new compression valves to seat. The original valves have a shallow throat compared to any of the new ones. Because we are all PEX with copper stubs he would have to replumb to put the new shutoffs on. We elected to just use the main shut off from now on for those fixtures whose valves don't work.

 

[Plumber69]

I never updated this. Had a plumber come in to look at these and who ever originally plumbed the house didn't leave enough stub out to get new compression valves to seat. The original valves have a shallow throat compared to any of the new ones. Because we are all pex with copper stubs he would have to replumb to put the new shutoffs on. We elected to just use the main shut off from now on for those fixtures whose valves don't work.

You can get a valve that will piggy back the other valve.

 

[Terry]

If it's copper from the wall, I pull the back nut and sleeve with a puller and if I need more room than that, I remove the wall escutcheon.
The piggyback looks like an easy fix though.

 

[Blooze]

If it's copper from the wall, I pull the back nut and sleeve with a puller and if I need more room than that, I remove the wall escutcheon.
The piggyback looks like an easy fix though.

Even pulling the escutcheon I’m not sure there’s enough. These old valves have about 1/2 the throat of that if any of the current ones. The piggyback would be the only way to go with the toilets I think.