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Ok so slight problem. I went to Lowes and bought the PVC tailpiece. The issue now is that there aren't enough threads on the tub drain for the tailpiece plastic nut to fully compress the washer. So I assume I need to buy a brass tailpiece like this one...

Thanks Terry. Is one way better than the other?

Hi all, I'm installing my freestanding tub and I have a few questions: 1) Can I use a 1.5" threaded female coupling to directly connect to the drain? I have full access to the tub underneath, and I haven't run the drain line yet, so I don't need to get the fit exact. 2) If I can do it that...

I knew I should have left well enough alone... I decided to take it apart. Looks like I had a perfectly good solder joint. Now I can just clean this up and resolder, right?

I definitely torqued it and twisted it as hard as I could to line it up as square as possible to the blocking. It's probably under a little stress now as it's screwed in. Still no leaks. And I bought the Moen pex valve, but it still had sweat fittings for the tub spout and diverter valve.

I've been thinking... Is it possible that I am being overly paranoid about this? I'm just afraid this might be one of those situations where I should leave well enough alone. With my luck, I'll probably resolder it and end up making things worse. This joint is past the shower valve and...

If I heat that joint up to take it apart, is it going to cause any issues with the joint at the valve about six inches away? I've already done a leak test, so these lines have all had water in them.

Hi all, I just plumbed in the shower for my bathroom. It looks terrible, but no leaks on 24 joints. One thing that concerns me is the drop elbow line in the picture below: When I was sweating the drop elbow, I had the 90 degree fitting pulled horizontal towards me so that I could keep the...

Agreed on PEX's ability to eliminate fittings. Unfortunately, this is a 2x3 interior wall, so there isn't enough room to make a 90 degree bend with 3/4" PEX, so I have to use the fitting. The washer/nut are where things might get a little hairy... There is a black plastic threaded washer that...

PROBLEM SOLVED! (I think) I bought a swivel fitting at Lowes. The threads line up and compress the seal perfectly. I just need a washer or two to secure it from the back. I'm still putting in an access panel right behind the fittings though. Any reason not to do it this way?

The manual lists the fittings as "standard US plumbing connections," and the parts diagram shows the threads as 3/4" IPS.

Thanks Jim, I stopped by Lowes and they had a hose/NPT adapter. I actually brought the faucet pipe and drop elbow with me to test. The NPT threads threaded into the drop elbow nicely, but the faucet pipe bound up about two threads into the hose side of the adapter. I thought garden hose...

Terry, you're correct. But it is also sold as a wall-mount-faucet. The instructions even address mounting it in a wall. Of course, it says "connect supply lines" without any consideration given to the fact that most in wall plumbing will have NPT threads... I'm just going to rethread either...

I saw those yesterday. I may be wrong, but those are listed as garden hose threads, so they won't be compatible.

Jim, I checked and then checked again - no adapters... I still have full access to everything, so I can use any setup I need. However, isn't it not the best idea to bury flexible supply lines in a wall? Don't they have a limited life time, sort of like washing machine hookups? Any reason not...

Or am I better off buying a 3/4" tap and turning the drop elbow into a non-tapered IPS fitting? That way, if I screw something up, it's only a $5 part instead of an integral component from a $300 faucet.

I was thinking.... Any reason I can't just buy a 3/4" NPT die and cut the threads?

Hi all, I have a tub faucet that I need to connect. http://www.kingstonbrass.com/v/images/tech/measurement/CC1T8.pdf This will be an on-the-wall installation. I have 3/4" NPT drop elbows mounted in between the studs. When I tried to thread the faucet, I couldn't get the threads to completely...

Hi all, Today I added new PEX lines to an existing copper setup. The copper/PEX transitions are brass, so I used MAPP gas instead of propane. One of the copper pipes was near a joist such that I couldn't get a good view of the solder job without moving the step-stool. Everything seemed fine...

They will connect immediately after their respective p-traps.