Slightly crushed trap pipe- any recovery from this?

[buckyswider]

Hi all,

Replacing a powder room vanity. When cutting the existing trap out, I crushed the sidewall of the pipe a bit. Is this going to cause a problem? And if so, is there any way to recover this? It's in a tough spot to cut, with the supply lines so close. They don't make a mini tubing cutter as big as 1-1/4", so I tried using a normal-sized one the best I could and using the 3/4 cut I could get to use as a guide to finish the cut with a multitool. Which is s a long way to say I don't trust that I'd have any better luck cutting down an inch lower.

And yes, I know that this config is not ideal- but to convert this to a P-trap would turn this into a major renovation (much more major than this project has already mushroomed to). It's a tiny powder room in a 220+ year old house. The vent for the toilet is on the opposite wall of the powder room, so I'd have to destroy & rebuild three walls (two of which are plaster, not drywall) as well as doing crawlspace work on top of a flex AC return, and chiseling out the foundation wall (this is in a 1930-some addition, with the wall you see there being a former exterior wall).

Even if I could cut the supply lines down low and piece in extensions later in order to use the full-sized cutter, there's still not enough clearance on the wall side to spin the cutter 360°.

(I doubt if anyone remembers, but this is the same project from late December where I had new flange issues- finally am recovered enough from dual knee replacement to continue!).

Thanks!

 

[wwhitney]

Your photo is looking down from above? So you have an S-trap? You could add an AAV on your trap arm to provide a proper P-trap. E.g. this is one brand:

https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-39225-Sure-Vent-Tubular-adapter/dp/B0069KDHSC/

As to the pipe with the deformed wall, that's tubular brass that's going down into the floor? It's not clear what the silver ring is around the brass. Perhaps a picture from the front would help?

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Sponsor]

 

[buckyswider]

Thanks for the reply! I should've pointed that out- it's the plastic slip joint washer. I left the on to show the gap.

As far as the AAV goes: I was looking at them, but many sources (haha!) say they don't meet code anyway. I don't think I need a P-trap for functional purposes- there was no methane or rodent issue with the prior trap. The only reason I considered it was to meet code. And even if I had done it, it would have been only the first p-trap in the house anyway!!

I'll grab a front elevation photo...

 

[wwhitney]

AAV is allowed by the IPC, but not by the UPC. Jurisdictions may amend that. PA generally uses the IPC, I believe, in which case an AAV would be a code compliant solution.

As to the tubular, if it's tubular sticking out of the floor that you are going to connect to, then what matters is that the tubular is properly round where the slip joint washer attaches. So if it's still round low enough down, and you can find a slip join fitting that will reach that far down, then you can leave the out of round end as is (after filing off the burrs). Otherwise, you'll either need to reround the end, or redo your cut lower down more carefully.

E.g. wrap the pipe with some tape as a cutting guide, making sure that the edges are aligned as the tape wraps over itself. Then get a jab saw with a fine metal blade. That could be just a bare hacksaw blade, or a fine metal reciprocating saw blade, with a jab saw handle. Cutting it carefully by hand should avoid taking it out of round.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[buckyswider]

As to the tubular, if it's tubular sticking out of the floor that you are going to connect to, then what matters is that the tubular is properly round where the slip joint washer attaches. So if it's still round low enough down, and you can find a slip join fitting that will reach that far down, then you can leave the out of round end as is (after filing off the burrs).

Cheers, Wayne

psshew, thanks! I had completely overlooked that point! I have 2" inside my female end of the slip joint. I had forgotten that so much so that I *almost* cut the pipe too low....when slid all the way down, the bottom of the S trap is just about sitting on that lower shelf of the new vanity. But it's just gonna make it! One of the "complications" of this is that my wife purchased the vanity without considering the plumbing. So there's that lower shelf as seen on the pic, and the cabinet sits on top of that leaving like 10" 8" clearance on that lower shelf, with a 3" slot available in the bottomw of that upper cabinet that is thankfully there to accommodate the bend of the p-trap, should it protrude lower than the "upper" shelf in the vanity cabinet. So I'll use that slot to run both the tailpiece and the flex supply lines.

Thanks again!!

 

[Reach4]

One of the "complications" of this is that my wife purchased the vanity without considering the plumbing.

That's never happened before.

Former S-trap turned into a p-trap.
From https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/funky-s-trap.42414/

 

[wwhitney]

the bottom of the S trap.

I suggest changing the S trap to a P trap with AAV. My attitude would be that I don't have to fix the entire house, but whenever changing out something, the rework should be proper. And I believe that is what the building/plumbing codes require.

Cheers, Wayne